High Tide Aquatics

3/4" solniod

ofzakaria

ofzakaria

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Anyone know where can I get a solniod that is 1/2" or 3/4 inch?
Am trying to put an automated weekly water change(will use in conjunction with the ion director no3 measurements). So I need some sort of gate valve or solenoid that I can electrically control.
Is there such a thing? There must be I would think..
I can other ways like dedicated pump in sump but this will be my last resort, would be nice if I can divert the return pump to the drain pipe going to the sewers...

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NanoCrazed said:
your other option is to buy the autoaqua auto water change it... :)
Click to expand...
But is this daily water change thing?
Am looking for a large one event water change to automate my weekly water change or trigger a big water change when am on travel and I see a spike in no3...sort of thing..

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it is a daily water change thing... not sure is you can program it by volume etc.

That said, maybe put it on a wifi or zwave controllable outlet? so you can turn it on and off as needed?
 
By astonishing coincidence i happen to have a 1/2" threaded solenoid lying around. Its yours if youre able to pick it up. I also have many smaller 1/8" solenoids, john guest fittings, and other assorted pieces you might need for your project. Shoot me a pm!
 

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NanoCrazed said:
it is a daily water change thing... not sure is you can program it by volume etc.

That said, maybe put it on a wifi or zwave controllable outlet? so you can turn it on and off as needed?
Click to expand...
The conteol I have with ghl or one of my older apex. That's ok.
What am looking for is a mechanical valve that I can control ao I do not have to add a dedicated pump in the sump just to push water out of the sump and drain it...make sense?
Cause I can make a T junction from the return pump that I can control if the water fo back to the DT(normal return line) or toward the drain to swerve line when I want to trigger the water change...


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Austin Wessel said:
By astonishing coincidence i happen to have a 1/2" threaded solenoid lying around. Its yours if youre able to pick it up. I also have many smaller 1/8" solenoids, john guest fittings, and other assorted pieces you might need for your project. Shoot me a pm!
Click to expand...
YES!. Thank you, you saved me the teoyblea of looking....
I would like to buy it from you of you willing...thanks alot will send you a pm

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A solenoid valve based system does not seem accurate enough for automatic weekly water changes.
Salinity may drift fairly quickly.
 
rygh said:
A solenoid valve based system does not seem accurate enough for automatic weekly water changes.
Salinity may drift fairly quickly.
Click to expand...
Why? I am not depending on the solniod. The solniod is only to rout water channels.
I will depend on optic water level sensors to decide how much I push out and how much I push in. So I would think ad long ad my fresh salt water is good salinity should be good...
Do you see a gap i my plan? Appreciate the input.

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Last edited:
ofzakaria said:
Why? I am not depending on the solniod. The solniod is only to rout water channels.
I will depend on optic water level sensors to decide how much I push out and how much I push in. So I would think ad long ad my fresh salt water is good salinity should be good...
Do you see a gap i my plan? Appreciate the input.

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Click to expand...

In a level based setup, accuracy depends on:

Accuracy of the sensor.
Because of surface tension and waves, optical level sensors can be off.
In particular, measure differently when water is rising versus falling.

Water level change versus volume
If you have a tiny return area, then 1G of water can make a big difference in height.
If you have a larger return area, that high difference is smaller, making sensor accuracy critical.

Control of the water
These solenoids are generally pressure-assisted.
That unfortunately means the water does not shut on/off exactly the same each time.
Play around with automatic sprinkler systems to get a feel of the timing.
And if it is high flow, from a return, then it could make a real difference.

Overall system
Making sure ATO does not turn on.
Making sure skimmer or return surges do not affect water level.
Making sure water exchange turns off when reservoir is empty.
Etc.

----

Can a level system work - definitely.
But if all those inaccuracies do add up.
 
rygh said:
In a level based setup, accuracy depends on:

Accuracy of the sensor.
Because of surface tension and waves, optical level sensors can be off.
In particular, measure differently when water is rising versus falling.

Water level change versus volume
If you have a tiny return area, then 1G of water can make a big difference in height.
If you have a larger return area, that high difference is smaller, making sensor accuracy critical.

Control of the water
These solenoids are generally pressure-assisted.
That unfortunately means the water does not shut on/off exactly the same each time.
Play around with automatic sprinkler systems to get a feel of the timing.
And if it is high flow, from a return, then it could make a real difference.

Overall system
Making sure ATO does not turn on.
Making sure skimmer or return surges do not affect water level.
Making sure water exchange turns off when reservoir is empty.
Etc.

----

Can a level system work - definitely.
But if all those inaccuracies do add up.
Click to expand...
Great points, am accounting for some already like disable ATO when trigger the event and monitor salinity. Ghl salinity probs are great and reliable btw.
Other points I did not think about so thank you for bringing it up. Will put some more checks on the system. But I think it's still doable with good relative success since regular water change that we do depend greatly on eye observation which must be lower accuracy than electronically..do not you think?
Same applys to common AWG equipments which was one of the reasons I did not like to use as it's a relatively set and forget which might cause drift over time tha I will not notice immediately..

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ofzakaria said:
Great points, am accounting for some already like disable ATO when trigger the event and monitor salinity. Ghl salinity probs are great and reliable btw.
Other points I did not think about so thank you for bringing it up. Will put some more checks on the system. But I think it's still doable with good relative success since regular water change that we do depend greatly on eye observation which must be lower accuracy than electronically..do not you think?

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Click to expand...

Hmm, maybe I should switch to GHL. I have had terrible luck with Apex salinity sensors.

The difference is that we do large changes fairly rarely, while exchange does small changes very often.
Thus, the absolute (not percentage) level accuracy is far lower for manual changes.

For me: I still need to vacuum detritus, which means an occasional water change. So I test with refractomer and tweak salinity then.
 
rygh said:
Hmm, maybe I should switch to GHL. I have had terrible luck with Apex salinity sensors.

The difference is that we do large changes fairly rarely, while exchange does small changes very often.
Thus, the absolute (not percentage) level accuracy is far lower for manual changes.

For me: I still need to vacuum detritus, which means an occasional water change. So I test with refractomer and tweak salinity then.
Click to expand...
Oh man, main reason I switched was the probs. Salinity and ph probs with ghl are incredible. I think they are less sensitive to stray voltage and voltage feedback that some times came from the apex modules themself based on my previous testings. Which I think is due to the chain cascades these modules are hooked. So ita bit harder to conteol dc voltage components on the power and control lines(the usb cable that connect the modules)...
With ghl the it's a star connection where everything is connected to the main box, so I think they controlled lines better in term of dc or low ac voltage noise...again I think..
Ghl even offer a salinity prob chamber that host the prob and water flow inside the chamber so salinity measurment is conpletly isolated.
Its great

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I cannot wait to see one of these companies move to wireless modules. I think the gear of wireless is bit exaggerated.
Bluetooth and BLE are reliable wireless technologies for such low data rate applications.
Can you imagin no more wires anymore? Just put modules wherever u like and no more wires..

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ofzakaria said:
I cannot wait to see one of these companies move to wireless modules. I think the gear of wireless is bit exaggerated.
Bluetooth and BLE are reliable wireless technologies for such low data rate applications.
Can you imagin no more wires anymore? Just put modules wherever u like and no more wires..

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Click to expand...
What about power?
Replacing batteries all the time would be a big hassle.
That means a plug and power supply for each sensor.
I would rather a small low voltage wire between probe and base unit.
 
rygh said:
What about power?
Replacing batteries all the time would be a big hassle.
That means a plug and power supply for each sensor.
I would rather a small low voltage wire between probe and base unit.
Click to expand...
With BLE powers last years.
Think about IOT devices that are being deployed in agriculture fields, in industrial plants or the temp sensors like the nest sensors that you put in a room.
A coin cell can last years.

Also With controller modules replacing a battery once every 6 months to a year will not be that hard..I would do it and simplify all the freaking wires ha ha

Btw it can at least be done on some not all.
Something like temp probs connection, ATO related connections. Maybe what is deeper too risky can still be wire. Or heck give both options and let the people decide:))

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Or solar! :cool:
No, really.
Our lights put out a ton of energy. If the attachment clip had a tiny solar panel, it might work.
 
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