Jestersix

Acrylic fabrication question? I'll be available !

krittertanks

krittertanks

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Intro: Fabricator of acrylic and other materials (wood, metal, plastics) 7 yrs in tha biz.
I've seen a few DIY topics here about acrylic, I thought I could add my 10 cents. This is how I started my wacky biz... just fooling around.
Just thought Id say hello, and offer my typing skills! Im here to answer questions. This is just a diy topic where the brains can be picked, hands on help will have to be in private. Thanks G
 
Acrylic has trouble bonding to other materials without the right glue. Silicone oly works for a few weeks, try this stuff they have at Tap plastics called e6000. Roughen the surfaces with sandpaper before adhering. Ive even tried epoxy to no avail.
 
I only use silicon as a "stop, keep it in place" for plexi baffles, the plexi comes loose but the silicon prevents it from going places; good amount of it.
Has worked so far so good.

Good to have you here Gen
 
As xcaret says, you have to consider if you really need a watertight seal or if you just want the baffle to stay in place. I've used silicone as well, but haven't really tried to forcefully move the baffle around.

In the sump, I figure that as long as most of the water is directed in the direction that I want it to go, then there is no real need to make it completely watertight. Silicone was easy to find, a little messy to use the first time around, but has worked out well.
 
What would be the best adhesive to cement an air line connection fitting (for purging accumulated air) into a hole in the top of a siphon overflow U Tube? Although I'm nearly done with "that experiment" but I never found an adhesive that would seal water and air and keep the standard fitting in place. I've tried gorrila glue and silicone sealer with no luck. For future reference...........

Thanks!
 
Here's a DIY fab question.

How do you attach a squared piece to an angled piece? Lets say you're building some tank that's not rectangular (i.e. trapazoid shaped or whatnot)

Do you try to match up all the angles to maximize surface area contact? Which for me I always screw up on my angles in some way.

Or do you overlap the angled piece on the outside then sand it down (see picture), which to me seems like the easiest way to do it. Or will that introduce a weak point?
angle.jpg


Also for the sake of argument lets say bending pieces is not an option ;)
 
Wow, u guys are wacky meddlers! :O
Over here, the worry about strength is not too much an issue, acrylic is quite amazing in strength Ive seen tanks built really thin and bowe like a bubble. They will be that way for like 10 yrs +, of course itd last longer if thicker, but that always costs more. To attach an angled piece that is cut angled, it is easiest to cut the flat lying piece to the wanted angle (or sand) first and then attach the angled piece (smoothly finished w straight edge) Then place with a similarily angled jig to hold in place and attach. Piece cannot be clamped easily so the attching surface must be really straight n clean. Hope that helps!
 
Hey Gen your Rimless thread had me thinking about something. Have you ever done a cylinder tank? I would think that shape wouldn't necessarily need the thicker acrylic simply because the cylinder will have an equal force all around pushing outward and as a result less bowing (maybe only in the vertical direction, making it look more like a donut :D).
 
You're correct Mike, only issue is.... the cost! A 1ft diameter /sq ft section of 3/8" thick material costs $120.00 dollars. Acrylic tends to get harder with age, when the top is rimless, it stretches and contracts throughout the day. Eventually ( afew years, less with halide UV's) this causes cracking. A top piece prevents this. If you go thicker in material, the cost doubles every 1/8" thickness. Those big 4' wide cylinders in Las Vegas/ Rainforest cafe sf are thousnds of dollars for just the material! I actually dont want that resposibility/ liability.. A call in the night :tired:
 
Here's a question for you, sorry if I'm asking too many, just the option to ask a pro and gain some knowledge is hard to turn up.

You can heat weld acrylic correct? Would this at all be a stronger bond than a chemical weld (weldon)? Just not as pretty?
 
Did you ask a lot of questions as a kid? :p Its ok.... I did too. AS for the heat welding plastic, I dont do any of this but I suppose it would be a stronger piece than a solvent bond. The issue is that since acrylics are clear, the heat weld could not be done really clean. Acrylic is really cool because it is clear, but Ive come to the realization that this is why it is hard to teach anyone to build with it. All the flaws in workmanship will show.
If we were using high pressure molds, acrylic could be reformed several times. Problem is were not, and any clear mistakes go into the recycle bin!
Sometimes I wish I chose another material :~
 
krittertanks said:
I don't want the responibility!
Click to expand...

Could you imagine the damage it could do if it did break? Oh the lawsuits would be flying all around.
 
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