For those with older Red Sea tanks and valves

[L/B Block]

For those who have had older Red Sea tanks (I think the valves are different on the new G2+) tanks-did you replace out the original valve for a gate valve?

I love the Red Sea tank I have except for the original valve. Almost every day I need to muck with it to avoid noise and regulate water through the sump. Wondering if I swap it out for an actual gate valve would help stabilize water flow.

But if I do-who are the master plumbers here? I’d def need need some help on this.

TIA

 

[IOnceWasLegend]

For those who have had older Red Sea tanks (I think the valves are different on the new G2+) tanks-did you replace out the original valve for a gate valve?

I love the Red Sea tank I have except for the original valve. Almost every day I need to muck with it to avoid noise and regulate water through the sump. Wondering if I swap it out for an actual gate valve would help stabilize water flow.

But if I do-who are the master plumbers here? I’d def need need some help on this.

TIA

I didn't like the 'stock' plumbing, so I ended up re-doing all the plumbing myself and installed a gate valve. Never had any issues regulating water flow through the sump on my RSR250. Only point I'd make is that the stock plumbing is metric, so you'd need an adapter for US plumbing.

 

[Kensington Reefer]

Ball valves are for on/off
gate valves are for flow adjustments
@Srt4eric
he‘s our resident plumbing master

 

[L/B Block]

I didn't like the 'stock' plumbing, so I ended up re-doing all the plumbing myself and installed a gate valve. Never had any issues regulating water flow through the sump on my RSR250. Only point I'd make is that the stock plumbing is metric, so you'd need an adapter for US plumbing.

Ball valves are for on/off
gate valves are for flow adjustments
@Srt4eric
he‘s our resident plumbing master

I might have to call on @Srt4eric for help!

 

[L/B Block]

I didn't like the 'stock' plumbing, so I ended up re-doing all the plumbing myself and installed a gate valve. Never had any issues regulating water flow through the sump on my RSR250. Only point I'd make is that the stock plumbing is metric, so you'd need an adapter for US plumbing.

There is a thread somewhere where someone had listed all the components needed for that adaptation.

I think the new tanks may come with either metric or non-metric plumbing but hopefully I won’t need to find out for awhile.

 

[IOnceWasLegend]

There is a thread somewhere where someone had listed all the components needed for that adaptation.

I think the new tanks may come with either metric or non-metric plumbing but hopefully I won’t need to find out for awhile.

When I did it I just cut the metric plumbing, installed the adapters (IIRC it was just a slip x slip adapter), and then plumbed the rest in US plumbing. Really, I think the only component you should need would be something like this: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/metric-to-standard-pvc-adapters.html (and Neptune Aquatics sells, or at least sold, them locally).

 

[RandyC]

Get a Spears 32mm to 1” transition union. This is what I did when I had a reefer 250.

Rostatos Reefer 450 and Reefer 170

Definitely not. They are pretty deep, and probably too much work for the likes of my laziness

www.bareefers.org

 

[RandyC]

I just saw these on Amazon. If you wanted to convert all three pieces of plumbing to imperial, here’s a package of 5 unions that are more reasonably priced.

Amazon.com

 

[L/B Block]

Get a Spears 32mm to 1” transition union. This is what I did when I had a reefer 250.

Rostatos Reefer 450 and Reefer 170

Definitely not. They are pretty deep, and probably too much work for the likes of my laziness

www.bareefers.org

Thanks. Much appreciated.
How long did you have you have the 250, you too @IOnceWasLegend -and why did you give up tank (ie issue or just bigger/smaller tank)

 

[SupraSaltyReefer]

Have you tried taking apart the valve and cleaning the diaphragm for maintenance? It’s recommended once a year. A lot of ditritus and even tiny snails can get stuck in there. That might be the reason for the fluctuations in water levels in your overflow.

 

[IOnceWasLegend]

Thanks. Much appreciated.
How long did you have you have the 250, you too @IOnceWasLegend -and why did you give up tank (ie issue or just bigger/smaller tank)

First owner had it for 2 or 3 years. I had for about a year before the bottom seam delaminated and was a millimeter of silicone away from spilling fifty gallons of water into my living room.

 

[L/B Block]

Thanks. Much appreciated.
How long did you have you have the 250, you too @i

First owner had it for 2 or 3 years. I had for about a year before the bottom seam delaminated and was a millimeter of silicone away from spilling fifty gallons of water into my living room.

Ooof-that’s a good reason to have it gone!

 

[L/B Block]

Have you tried taking apart the valve and cleaning the diaphragm for maintenance? It’s recommended once a year. A lot of ditritus and even tiny snails can get stuck in there. That might be the reason for the fluctuations in water levels in your overflow.

I’ll check it out. Thanks.
Still interested in swapping it all the same but if that works then I’ll reconsider.

 

[IOnceWasLegend]

Ooof-that’s a good reason to have it gone!

I don't disagree. The plural of anecdote is not data, but there's a thread on Humblefish dedicated to cataloging only community-reported Red Sea failures that occurred after the creation of that thread.

Yes, you can argue that red sea sells more tanks so there should be a higher number of failures than other brands, but it still seems like red sea has a disproportionately higher rate of failure (to say nothing of their bad customer support).

 

[RandyC]

Thanks. Much appreciated.
How long did you have you have the 250, you too @IOnceWasLegend -and why did you give up tank (ie issue or just bigger/smaller tank)

I had my reefer 250 4-5 years, original owner. I just upgraded to a larger tank. The original diaphragm valve was fine the first two years, but no matter how much I cleaned it, it was constantly changing the amount that would flow through it and would require constant fiddling. So, I changed it to a gate valve around then.

 

[L/B Block]

I don't disagree. The plural of anecdote is not data, but there's a thread on Humblefish dedicated to cataloging only community-reported Red Sea failures that occurred after the creation of that thread.

Yes, you can argue that red sea sells more tanks so there should be a higher number of failures than other brands, but it still seems like red sea has a disproportionately higher rate of failure (to say nothing of their bad customer support).

I have not been a hobbyist long enough to really know the ins/outs of the history of what companies were good…and not so good in respects to aquariums (only been reefing for 5 yrs)

It’s also hard to know, what the actual failure rate is/was of Red Sea compared to other companies. Also I know a few people on this forum that have sworn off Red Sea. Prob if I was on the forum during the breakdown of the first tank-maybe would have gone a different direction? Who knows.


But it seems that there are many more companies that are building really quality products these days so..perhaps they have stepped up their QA?

In addition, in last 18 months I have purchased their dosers, lights, reefmat, and their new ATO. All with exception with the ATO, all have worked great so far.

As to the ATO, it was a defective unit, and they shipped out the components within 24 hours. Also works great. so perhaps they saw the writing on the wall in respects to QA -although it is maddening that they don’t have immediate assistance -at least during normal work hours.

See how the tank holds up long term but I’ll be keeping my eye out for issues all the same. So far so good.

 

[L/B Block]

I had my reefer 250 4-5 years, original owner. I just upgraded to a larger tank. The original diaphragm valve was fine the first two years, but no matter how much I cleaned it, it was constantly changing the amount that would flow through it and would require constant fiddling. So, I changed it to a gate valve around then.

Duly noted on the valve. May just go ahead and spare myself the cleaning time wasted. It looks like from the link you sent-a couple of those couplers, a gate valve, and some glue should do?

 

[RandyC]

I’d buy a spare Red Sea part (Red Sea part #42221) and leave the original valve assembly in place in case you want to change it back or you make a mistake with the mod and need to valve to run the tank.

So you’d need the spare Red Sea part, the 32mm to 1” transition union and then whatever 1” standard plumbing you want. I just used pvc primer and pvc cement.

 

[L/B Block]

Good point on the spare. I’d don’t think I would go back but would be concerned about a mistake.
Actually need another union to contend with the reefmat.

How long did you allow the pvc primer/cement to dry before restarting the pumps. And what, if anything, what you using to oxygenate the water during that time frame. I have an air pump with an air stone and the circulation pumps should suffice

 

[RandyC]

I usually don’t wait long after using primer and cement when making changes to running tanks. Maybe 10 minutes at the most.

I also built the drain away from the tank and not in place since I only had a straight shot of pipe to worry about so the change was quick to the new drain in this case. But some will say wait 24 hours to fully cure, but I’ve never done that personally and haven’t seen an issue.