Heater issue

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by jorahx4, Feb 4, 2018.

  1. jorahx4

    jorahx4 Supporting Member

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    Last night I changed it to 79. This morning when I woke up it was 73.


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  2. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Colorado member

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    Is the heater on 24 hours a day? If it is, then you know it’s just underpowered, but I wouldn’t think that’s the case. 75 Watts seems like a good size for 20 gallons. Fish and corals do tolerate colder water better than warmer but I can understand that you want it warmer than it is.

    Since there’s a discrepancy between the heater and the thermometer you may want to try a third thermometer so you can make sure it’s not an error with the other thermometer. The heater is likely the problem but it’s good to make sure.
     
  3. jorahx4

    jorahx4 Supporting Member

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    I was having better accuracy when it was in one of the side chambers of my all in one innovative marine 20. But I decided to fill that chamber with marine pure balls and put the heater in the center with the return pumps. Does the high flow vs the low flow effect the heating?


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  4. Bruce Spiegelman

    Bruce Spiegelman BOD

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    No -- mine are in the center of both my Innovative Marines.
     
  5. jorahx4

    jorahx4 Supporting Member

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    Well I wanted to get a second heater and thermostat. So guess I'll get one soon and do some trials to see what could be the issue.


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  6. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

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    Run your heaters through a ranco controller then just turn your heater on higher.


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  7. Bruce Spiegelman

    Bruce Spiegelman BOD

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    Your Nems really prefer stable temperature. Best way to obtain that is two heaters and a controller so you keep the temp constant.
     
  8. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

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    Aquatop heater w seperate digital controller and digital readout is my go to for heater with no external controlling device.
     
  9. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

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    I just reupped my membership. :)


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  10. jorahx4

    jorahx4 Supporting Member

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    so, apex jr seems like the lowest tier of the apex controllers, but would work for my tank.

    temp
    ph
    Salinity

    any other things for a controller that would be recommended to have?
    think this would also track my temperature throughout the day and correct my issue.
     
  11. Bruce Spiegelman

    Bruce Spiegelman BOD

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    Apex jr is perfect for those things and especially for controlling two heaters in the tank for you. I actually think it's one of the best bargains in reefing as it's expandable as your needs grow. The only caveat to it these days is it won't run the forthcoming Alk monitor.
     
  12. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

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    Bear in mind that the Jr can only have 7 modules. PH and Salinity are already 2. Once you get the hang of it, modules add up fast. FMK (flow), ATK (ato), VDM (0-10v), WXM (Ecotech), LDK (Leak), EB8, DOS (doser), WAV (wavemaker pump) etc

    I would suggest you start looking at the 2016 Apex instead, there are reasonably priced used ones out there. That way you future proof your purchase.


    The upcoming Trident (Alk/Ca/Mg monitor) is only compatible with the 2016 Apex.


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  13. daddio

    daddio Supporting Member

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  14. jorahx4

    jorahx4 Supporting Member

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    Yeah mark I saw those!

    But vhuang does make a good point.




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  15. jorahx4

    jorahx4 Supporting Member

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    just learned that the heater can be calibrated. mine is probably not correct. next to start some trials to get it set correctly.
     
  16. Mozby's Reef

    Mozby's Reef Supporting Member

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    I use the Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm 75W heater and it is incredibly accurate and consistent. Temp stays between 78-79. I have yet to see it waver beyond that. BRS has a video on heater testing and the neo-therms came out as most accurate. Something to consider maybe?
     
  17. Oakland Evan

    Oakland Evan Supporting Member

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    ashburn2k likes this.
  18. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

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    I know this is an old topic (I was ready to reply!) but if you're worried if the accuracy of your heater see if it is in fact still on when set to 77 (or whatever temp) yet your Apex (or whatever controller) says it's only 75. If it is on 24/7, it very well is an issue of too much energy leaving the tank and not enough going in, just get another heater, brand doesn't matter (except perhaps it's lasting power) heat is heat, a 100W Jebao will put the same energy into your tank as a 100W Eheim... just the Jebao might put other things into your tank too :D
     
  19. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

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    I've been looking at that as well, and thinking about getting one mostly because the Ranco's they have on Amazon do not ship Prime fast :D (they might send it via 2 day shipping, but it'll take 3-5 days before it gets shipped)

    But my biggest worry is I would use this for my beefy 1000W heater, and while yeah it says it can handle it when their specs are at the upper limit I do worry about continuous current draw versus periodic.
     
  20. rygh

    rygh Supporting Member

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    Well, you could have the Ranco/Any controller control a separate very heavy duty relay.
    https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RKJE652PDZC1B0SNSP70
    Of course, that adds another point of failure...

    Also be careful of your main electrical circuit. You are getting up there on a normal 15A breaker.
     

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