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HOW to setup a quarantine tank?

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greghigham

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I posted this on RC but wanted to query my local team as well...

Like many before me, I have (reactively) discovered the critical importance of setting up a quarantine tank.
OK, then... How? I understand sizing the QT relative to the DT, but I'm not sure what other equipment (lighting, skimming, etc.) is required for the most successful QT.
Would you please outline specifically what you would purchase for the optimal new QT setup, please?
TIA,
G
 
I think sizing bepends on what and how much you plan to QT. I plan on doing a water change into a 2.5g or maybe a 5g for a couple days to monitor frags from the swap.
 
Are we talking fish? or corals?

But a QT is fairly simple, with fish don't worry about lights, with corals, try to get some lighting on, I usually opt for a minimal amount then gradually kick it up during the QT period just to get them somewhat acclimated to the lights they will go under.

Skimming not necessary, although a HOB filter, one of those cheap "whisper" ones is a nice add on if you put a little carbon in it.

Flow, try to get some water flow in there, doesn't have to be much, something to move the water around though.

Optimal QT:
1 tank, small, 10-20gallons (however larger fish will appreciate a larger tank! For corals, who cares)
1 water change from your tank, put that water into the QT
1 sponge filter that's been sitting in your sump for a couple weeks or so, this is because it's loaded up with bacteria to break down ammonia and the like, so you can skip the cycle process. If this isn't possible a rock from your tank (or sump) is nice as long as you're not going to medicate the tank it self.
1 HOB filter, cheapest SOB you can fine. Use bulk carbon in it.
1 cheap powerhead, sized approriately so things don't get blown all over the place.
Lighting optional, for corals whatever you have around is good.
Places to hide for a fish, cut PVC tube, etc. Or a frag rack for corals so they don't get blown around and into each other.
 
Thanks, all. I still have questions (OK, I'm thick ;) )
Seems that any newly setup tank, even a small QT, would have to go through a cycle - even with sping or liverock from the DT. How is this managed with tanks that are setup and torn down repeatedly - especially if there is an issue with the DT water (say Ich for example) that eliminates usage of DT water as the source for QT?
Also, isn't using LR contrary to the principle of a setting up a fairly sterile environment in QT to eliminate possible habitat for parasites that might be shed in QT?
G intrigued
 
To deal with the cycle bit, that's why i said grab a sponge filter that's been sitting in your sump a couple months, that should all but negate the need to cycle. Remember the reason a tank cycles is in response to ammonia, a tank with only water won't make much in the way of ammonia, and when you stick corals in there probably will be a minimal amount of die off (you hope! :D) so it's not that huge of an issue, for fish however, they poop obviously, well that's where the sponge comes into play because you already have a "cycled" sponge (surface area of a sponge most likely will be on order or larger than the surface area of the walls of your tank.

As to parasites, them having a place to hide does not make them proliferate. That being said, I go against the grain of what Jeremy does and I don't do much in the way of rock in a QT with corals, I want to make sure if they got bugs of some sort I can see those bugs on the actual coral.
 
There are different methodologies when QTing, I do a series of dips then observation, although I do interceptor the QT. I basically use the Frank Burr method except I leave the coral in the QT tank for 4-6 weeks depending. No animal goes from the QT to the DT during this time.


AFA as ammonia spike when setting the tank up, I use well seasoned liverock an can have it setup with Montis and Acros in an hour. As Mike stated fish are different, they poo, in that case I have a skimmer on the tank and a small damsel in there to keep the tank conditioned. Damsels are also good at macking out on red planaria.

I don't suggest keeping coral for several weeks in a sterile tank, especially more sensitive SPS stuff. In order for them to be able to help in the fight against pests one must keep them healthy as well.
 
Thanks all. I'm still trying to determine the potential negative impact of putting items from an Ich infected DT into the QT (liverock, sponge, etc.) and what the better/best alternatives are for setting up an effective QT. More thoughts/counsel here?
TIA,
G
 
If concerned about ich, then run the rocks and sponge in a container/quarantine without fish for 6-8 weeks to break the disease cycle.

You can set up a quickie quarantine tank with a spare 10-20g tank and a hang on back filter.

10g is convenient, but 20 does better with evaporation issues.

Use a sponge, rock, and a bunch of chaeto in the HOB.

Throw a small halide or PC light over the whole thing.

I don't use a skimmer on the quarantine.

I kinda like these even better than tanks:

http://www.rubbermaid.com/rubbermaid/product/product.jhtml?prodId=HPProd100236

Cheap, lots of area, good gas exchange, and shallow so you don't need bright lights.

Just hang a filter off one end. You get a wide range of flows so you can pick the best spots for your frags.
 
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