I'll check just never made the mental comparisons in size.
Oceanic 40gallon Sps tank.
- Thread starter MichaelB
- Start date
PizzaOven
Supporting Member
You can stretch a small section of soft dosing tube over a 1/4” RO tube. I’ve done it before for different reasons. Yes you still have a small section of soft tubing, but better than the whole length if you believe it’s a source of contamination.
I'd put a cable tie on there just in case. If you don't have a good seal or could affect how accurate your dosing is (an issue I had until I got it super tight).
Alexander1312
Supporting Member
I just re-watched a presentation from Dr. Christoph Denk / Oceamo (in German), and he confirmed that they found rather high amounts of tin in some tubing products in their tests.
They apparantly offer tests for tubing samples at relatively small amounts 12 USD, but I could not find this on their website. Still, it confirms that this is apparantly quite a common issue.
They apparantly offer tests for tubing samples at relatively small amounts 12 USD, but I could not find this on their website. Still, it confirms that this is apparantly quite a common issue.
I just grabbed the cheapest Amazon made in China one I saw figuring it was just a tube. If I suspected this was a possible issue I would have spent a few more bucks.
PizzaOven
Supporting Member
Good idea!
Used to come from cheap glass in aquarium manufacturing too
So I finally got around to addressing some issues in the tank. With coral encroachment on others.
The red circle shows. A tri color valida acropora. It's beautiful yet I had no idea it was like a table acropora. I placed it in the center of everything and just started encroaching on all the other corals including part way fusing to the rock structure.
I was able to cut the part fused to the Rock and it all came out. In addtion to 4 other acroporas that it had fused to their frag plugs and tiles.
I was able to get them separated and used my pocket knife to scrap off the portion of the tri color that had encrusted on part of their plugs. Luckily no acroporas die considering it was touching the tissue of 5 others. They kinda just held it at bay. Hopefully the others will have more room to spread out now that they have their plugs free of this one.
*100% bad coral placement on my part*
Included above are also the first ever top down shots I ever took of this tank. I killed all the flow and return pumps to see what I was doing.
Ultimately the tri color acropora mini colony is still intact. I will likey make a few frags while preserving the colony if anyone is intrested?
I also made 2 frags of cobbs cali cali that was almost encroaching towards a bill Murray and one branch of pink Cadillac acropora also at risk of encroaching.
If your intrested in a tricolor acropora frag, a cali cali, or pink Cadillac respond below and we can make arrangements.
Picture of the tri color removed from dead center currently leaning against back wall.
My next great problem is gmks, and strats growing like crazy. I need to make some frags of them. These are the only zoas I have in my main tank.
The red circle shows. A tri color valida acropora. It's beautiful yet I had no idea it was like a table acropora. I placed it in the center of everything and just started encroaching on all the other corals including part way fusing to the rock structure.
I was able to cut the part fused to the Rock and it all came out. In addtion to 4 other acroporas that it had fused to their frag plugs and tiles.
I was able to get them separated and used my pocket knife to scrap off the portion of the tri color that had encrusted on part of their plugs. Luckily no acroporas die considering it was touching the tissue of 5 others. They kinda just held it at bay. Hopefully the others will have more room to spread out now that they have their plugs free of this one.
*100% bad coral placement on my part*
Included above are also the first ever top down shots I ever took of this tank. I killed all the flow and return pumps to see what I was doing.
Ultimately the tri color acropora mini colony is still intact. I will likey make a few frags while preserving the colony if anyone is intrested?
I also made 2 frags of cobbs cali cali that was almost encroaching towards a bill Murray and one branch of pink Cadillac acropora also at risk of encroaching.
If your intrested in a tricolor acropora frag, a cali cali, or pink Cadillac respond below and we can make arrangements.
Picture of the tri color removed from dead center currently leaning against back wall.
My next great problem is gmks, and strats growing like crazy. I need to make some frags of them. These are the only zoas I have in my main tank.
Last edited:
Rodi filtration update.
Posting here since this is my main tank.
Following icp test and seeing siclia in rodi water as well as having tdos reaching back up to 2ds.
I did more research. And have decided to switch up the rodi system slightly.
Current I was running:
1 sediment filter
2 carbon blocks plus clormines
1 ro membrane (I have two membranes but only one is hooked up. The other has been there over a year unused still new I Haven't had the courage to try to add in the second one scared I will screw something up with lack of plumbing skills.)
2 di resin mix beads.
The new change will be altered to the following.
1 sediment filter
2 carbon blocks plus clormines
1 Ro membrane, (I would like both hooked up but not confident. I would do it right)
1 di resin Cation
1 di resin Anion
1 di resin mix bead to catch anything that the others miss.
I've ordered new filters and resins. In addtion to a single new ro canister to add a 3rd resin stage to the system.
My research said that mix bead resin one burns out quicker than the other making it all useless. Causing you to have to change it more often. Seeing Silica is often the result.
Having the first two resins not mixed means you only have to change the one thats spent. Allowing you to keep the other one and ultimately saves more money over time.
Using single bead isn't as efficient as mix bead so there is the final mix bead at the end to catch the tiny bits that may sneak through. After passing through the other two resins the mix bead would than last a lot longer.
Hopefully this allows me to improve water quality in all tanks.
*** I haven't decided to as of yet. However I'm considering switching salts from reef crystals to aqua forest. Tested a small batch it mixed completely clean no crude about bottom of bin. It also says it's usable in about 15mins after adding it. Unlike the overnight I normal wait with reef crystals.
Let me know your thoughts if you use or have used aqua forest in sps dominated tank?
Posting here since this is my main tank.
Following icp test and seeing siclia in rodi water as well as having tdos reaching back up to 2ds.
I did more research. And have decided to switch up the rodi system slightly.
Current I was running:
1 sediment filter
2 carbon blocks plus clormines
1 ro membrane (I have two membranes but only one is hooked up. The other has been there over a year unused still new I Haven't had the courage to try to add in the second one scared I will screw something up with lack of plumbing skills.)
2 di resin mix beads.
The new change will be altered to the following.
1 sediment filter
2 carbon blocks plus clormines
1 Ro membrane, (I would like both hooked up but not confident. I would do it right)
1 di resin Cation
1 di resin Anion
1 di resin mix bead to catch anything that the others miss.
I've ordered new filters and resins. In addtion to a single new ro canister to add a 3rd resin stage to the system.
My research said that mix bead resin one burns out quicker than the other making it all useless. Causing you to have to change it more often. Seeing Silica is often the result.
Having the first two resins not mixed means you only have to change the one thats spent. Allowing you to keep the other one and ultimately saves more money over time.
Using single bead isn't as efficient as mix bead so there is the final mix bead at the end to catch the tiny bits that may sneak through. After passing through the other two resins the mix bead would than last a lot longer.
Hopefully this allows me to improve water quality in all tanks.
*** I haven't decided to as of yet. However I'm considering switching salts from reef crystals to aqua forest. Tested a small batch it mixed completely clean no crude about bottom of bin. It also says it's usable in about 15mins after adding it. Unlike the overnight I normal wait with reef crystals.
Let me know your thoughts if you use or have used aqua forest in sps dominated tank?
Alexander1312
Supporting Member
I have been using an 8 stage RODI with 28 TDS source water, with Cation - Anion - Mixed Bed after the two ROs, and still show silicate at the end (as per recent ICP) with 0 TDS, and the resins did not show a sign of being exhausted (no relevant color change). My guess was that membranes were done, and I replaced them, since the resins had only been replaced recently before the ICP.
So here is the update on the rodi system.
For long as i had this system up and running I didn't have the system mounted on the wall. It was just stored in a med size food storage lexan sitting on a cart.
Yesterday I finally said screw it after work and broke out the drill and mounted it to the wall.
During the process I added a 3rd single stage for di resin. It came with a brand new mix bead resin however one of the two I already had was only like 90% spent so I swapped that one into the new single canister and saved the brand new one in a zip lock bag for later.
I also dumped the other distractions resin that was 80% spent and found a old resin cartridge from the last resin swap to fill with the 2 new single bead resin. They di filters are hung on the wall backwards the water from membranes enter on right side into the 2 single beads and exits out of the single canister of mixed bead on to the storage bin.
I watch a few videos in specific I found a really old one from brs that I had to pause over a dozen times to figure out how to install the second ro membrane in series.
I must say I actually surprised myself and didn't have any leaks and it was hooked up the right way the first time. If not for the step by step video I'd have totally screwed it all up.
What I can say is it's working. I'm a little unsure over the fact that the out put of the system has increased by at least double if I were to guess.
So much so the third di resin container the water outside of the interior canister is emptied before it fills up while the system is running. It fills up completely when the auto stop is triggered by holding tbe float valve.
I have a pressure gauge coming tomorrow from Amazon. One video said you need at least 60-65 psi before the membranes for this to work correctly. Hopefully I don't need one cause it's something I'm also clueless about and wouldn't know where to start to trying to find one let alone hook one up.
Is the 3rd di resin container being empty around the internal cartridge a issue?
Right one is full
Middle one half way
Last one empty
Before the extra membrane and only having two they were both full of water if I recall correctly.
TDS:
Those source water ranges from 256-189 oddly it changes at different times of day?
after the ro membranes it's 5 tds
After the di resin I'm getting 1 tds.
For long as i had this system up and running I didn't have the system mounted on the wall. It was just stored in a med size food storage lexan sitting on a cart.
Yesterday I finally said screw it after work and broke out the drill and mounted it to the wall.
During the process I added a 3rd single stage for di resin. It came with a brand new mix bead resin however one of the two I already had was only like 90% spent so I swapped that one into the new single canister and saved the brand new one in a zip lock bag for later.
I also dumped the other distractions resin that was 80% spent and found a old resin cartridge from the last resin swap to fill with the 2 new single bead resin. They di filters are hung on the wall backwards the water from membranes enter on right side into the 2 single beads and exits out of the single canister of mixed bead on to the storage bin.
I watch a few videos in specific I found a really old one from brs that I had to pause over a dozen times to figure out how to install the second ro membrane in series.
I must say I actually surprised myself and didn't have any leaks and it was hooked up the right way the first time. If not for the step by step video I'd have totally screwed it all up.
What I can say is it's working. I'm a little unsure over the fact that the out put of the system has increased by at least double if I were to guess.
So much so the third di resin container the water outside of the interior canister is emptied before it fills up while the system is running. It fills up completely when the auto stop is triggered by holding tbe float valve.
I have a pressure gauge coming tomorrow from Amazon. One video said you need at least 60-65 psi before the membranes for this to work correctly. Hopefully I don't need one cause it's something I'm also clueless about and wouldn't know where to start to trying to find one let alone hook one up.
Is the 3rd di resin container being empty around the internal cartridge a issue?
Right one is full
Middle one half way
Last one empty
Before the extra membrane and only having two they were both full of water if I recall correctly.
TDS:
Those source water ranges from 256-189 oddly it changes at different times of day?
after the ro membranes it's 5 tds
After the di resin I'm getting 1 tds.
MolaMola
Supporting Member
If you mean your water pressure might be low and you need to add a booster pump, it is easy.
Ha - I also will be getting a (replacement) pressure gauge from Amazon. I think this is my third replacement bc my system is not mounted. All the canisters make it so long that it is easy to tip over and land on the gauge.
Ha - I also will be getting a (replacement) pressure gauge from Amazon. I think this is my third replacement bc my system is not mounted. All the canisters make it so long that it is easy to tip over and land on the gauge.
What is your direction of water flow currently from stage to stage? Should be seeing zero TDS if you're running 7 stages going sediment, carbon, carbon, RO membrane, cation, anion, mixed. Make sure your carbon cartridges are rated for chloramine removal too.
Both of them are.
Water source Sediment filter carbon block carbon block ro membrane ro membrane cation di resin anion resin mix bead resin rodi storage.
Got the new pressure gague installed:
Looks like it's just over 70 psi maybe 71/72
According to videos and gone this system shouldn't need a booster pump if I'm reading this thing right.
* To clarify the device is located in line after the 2nd carbon block and right before the in series ro membranes.*
Today source water reading 161 in stead of 256 like yesterday after membranes 5 tds, after the resins I'm still getting,1 tds.
@Darkxerox
Looks like it's just over 70 psi maybe 71/72
According to videos and gone this system shouldn't need a booster pump if I'm reading this thing right.
* To clarify the device is located in line after the 2nd carbon block and right before the in series ro membranes.*
Today source water reading 161 in stead of 256 like yesterday after membranes 5 tds, after the resins I'm still getting,1 tds.
@Darkxerox
Ran it a hour after swapping sediment filter carbon block filters and di resins.
I also ran it another hour after connecting the new addition
,al over night, I filled 3. 5gallon buckets and a 55 gallon barrel.