Cali Kid Corals

Plumbing a 57gRR Oceanic Illuminata

Dazed1

Dazed1

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I bought a 57gRR Oceaning Illuminata from Chris @ Aquatic. However, I have a couple weeks before I can have it picked up due to some travels.

Now, I need to figure out plumbing. What to get, and since i have time, I can order the good stuff online. I usually don't have patience, but I have no choice this time, lol.

The "set" comes with:
Tank, Saw some tubes etc that were from Oceanic. Don't remember what exactly.
Oceanic tech stand
Eshopps sump (don't remember the size, but fit perfectly under the stand)
Reef Octopus-100 (i think) skimmer. Skimmer return pump.

Things I have already from current tank, or have on order:
Eheim 1260 for the return pump
2 x mp10WES (wireless)
Kessil A350W (will be the only light)

What I need help with:
Plumbing. Not sure how to plumb it (will have local help), but I want to order the parts while I can. From what I have been reading, and what may be overkill, sched 80 pipes, elbows, ball valve, gate valve.

What I'd like to do:
I will want to use the dual output flow that comes with the tank.
Ability to shut off return pump when feeding. Or ability to control the flow output.
Ability to shutdown the overflow (is it needed?) can help if I need to do some work in the sump.

What else am I not thinking?

I'm also looking for someone who can lend me a leveler. I want to make sure the tank is level before I put water in it. My current JBJ is a bit tilted forward. I want to add shims to this stand if needed.
 
eldiablosrt8 said:
Come by when home i can draw you a setup simple n easy wont overflow also can loan you a level.... get home already
Click to expand...

Lol, i can't wait to get back. Get back on the 21st. Want the tank delivered 26th. Very impatient, lol. so want to do any of the buying beforehand so that you can help set it up :D
 
It helps to draw everything out on paper and make a material list. A true union ball valve on the return pump and drains help when needing to service the tank and control flow. You might want to get some gate valves if you are teeing of the return pump to feed reactors (carbon, gfo, bio pellets).
 
You've got some nice gear there dazed1..... If the sump is wall to wall in your stand that leads me to believe you have the r300 sump which measures 36" in length. If you have a little bit of room say roughly 6" you have the r200 that measures 30" in length....do you have the 1st gen or gen 2 the easiest way to tell is there isn't really a skimmer section just the drain section....which is really tiny on the 1st gen. Also the baffles are black on the gen 2

+1 on the ball valves for the return pump and drain....also plumbing in the gate valve off of the return even if you weren't planning on any reactors...Lou never know what the future might entail

Good luck with your build maybe a tank journal in your future....
 
gimmito said:
It helps to draw everything out on paper and make a material list. A true union ball valve on the return pump and drains help when needing to service the tank and control flow. You might want to get some gate valves if you are teeing of the return pump to feed reactors (carbon, gfo, bio pellets).
Click to expand...

Be careful with cheap "true union" ball valves, and old versions of expansive ones. Some are designed in such a manor the ball valve can actually drop out making it not useful for servicing. The old expansive Asahi America Duo Blocks had this issue, MBA showed me the issue at their facility many many moons ago, right after I bought a boat load from a company going out of business.
 
BAYMAC said:
gimmito said:
It helps to draw everything out on paper and make a material list. A true union ball valve on the return pump and drains help when needing to service the tank and control flow. You might want to get some gate valves if you are teeing of the return pump to feed reactors (carbon, gfo, bio pellets).
Click to expand...

Be careful with cheap "true union" ball valves, and old versions of expansive ones. Some are designed in such a manor the ball valve can actually drop out making it not useful for servicing. The old expansive Asahi America Duo Blocks had this issue, MBA showed me the issue at their facility many many moons ago, right after I bought a boat load from a company going out of business.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up Gresham. I have the NIBCO® Chemtrol® Heavy Duty Tru-Bloc® TruUnion Ball Valves...I hope they don't have the same problems as the older expansive Asahi ball valves. I remember Sanji Joshi mentioning he uses them.
 
BAYMAC said:
gimmito said:
It helps to draw everything out on paper and make a material list. A true union ball valve on the return pump and drains help when needing to service the tank and control flow. You might want to get some gate valves if you are teeing of the return pump to feed reactors (carbon, gfo, bio pellets).
Click to expand...

Be careful with cheap "true union" ball valves, and old versions of expansive ones. Some are designed in such a manor the ball valve can actually drop out making it not useful for servicing. The old expansive Asahi America Duo Blocks had this issue, MBA showed me the issue at their facility many many moons ago, right after I bought a boat load from a company going out of business.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up Gresham. I have the NIBCO® Chemtrol® Heavy Duty Tru-Bloc® TruUnion Ball Valves...I hope they don't have the same problems as the older expansive Asahi ball valves. I remember Sanji Joshi mentioning he uses them.
 
True-Bloc, nope, not aware of any issue with them... just the older Duo-Blocks and cheap ones.

FWIW it's Sanjay :D though I like the ease of Sanji and it sure looks right :lol:
 
IM SO SALTY said:
You've got some nice gear there dazed1..... If the sump is wall to wall in your stand that leads me to believe you have the r300 sump which measures 36" in length. If you have a little bit of room say roughly 6" you have the r200 that measures 30" in length....do you have the 1st gen or gen 2 the easiest way to tell is there isn't really a skimmer section just the drain section....which is really tiny on the 1st gen. Also the baffles are black on the gen 2

+1 on the ball valves for the return pump and drain....also plumbing in the gate valve off of the return even if you weren't planning on any reactors...Lou never know what the future might entail

Good luck with your build maybe a tank journal in your future....
Click to expand...

Thanks.
I believe it is the RS100, not the 200. (http://www.eshopps.com/?page=RS_100#) Its not end to end size of the stand, since the tech stand has support pillars. Its a modified RS100 where the section for the skimmer is seperated by a acrylic baffle to create a small refugium area. I don't have the stuff with me (i'm traveling). But if anyone is at aquatic, its the tank + stand thats at the bottom of the store with my name on it :p

I may get reactors, but maybe not full fledged reactors, though that is a good point and worth thinking about it from the beginning.


Jess, if you do want to purchase it, that would be awesome. Got to have the ease of replacing and maintenance. :) msg me with any questions/cost/anything.
 
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