210 gallon Dream tank

[MichaelB]

What future project?

I don't know. Lol but it seems I always have another project sooner or later. However nothing is currently planned. It's Almost like projects as much as I love looking at the tanks.

Yet I'm committed to finshing up the 210 and mixing station before I let my mind start drifting and getting new ideas.

 

[Cody Ramirez]

So next update.

Based on feedback from my recent plumbing update I've heeded the various suggestions given to me by different members.

View attachment 72241
To start with over the last week, I've preformed a water test with the tank still on furniture dollies. This involved only 3 inches of water just to cover the top of the plugs on the bottom bulkheads. Initially I had some slow drips the main reason for the 3 inches of water. I tighten the bulkheads that same day. And let tbe water sit for about 5 days. No addtion drips were found after tightening the bulkheads.

The water was drained and the dollies removed. I left a gap behind the tank after a member said reaching the plumbing would be difficult. For a guy my size impossible but I decided to leave enough space where I could potentially recruit a skinny bar member to help without draining the entire tank should a future issue require reaching rear plumbing.

View attachment 72242View attachment 72243View attachment 72244

Based on a few different comments I decided to fork out the cash for some better ball valves for the bottom of the tank.

I also got the pvc safe pipe dope type material listed safe for pvc over the Teflon tape I originally used for the threaded connections.

In the end I opted against actually gluing the union bulk heads to pvc as they would current only act as a drain should I decided to later cap the pipes off and use these ball valves on a different project in the future.
(If I ever got the desire to do a closed loop with them I would glue them in at that point.)

View attachment 72246
Feeling confident that the bottom of the tank wasn't leaking more feed back suggested that 3 inches of water wasn't enough water weight and pressure to fairly test the bottom bulkheads. So With the tank on the floor. I started filling it up with rodi water. The first 55 gallons are in the tank. So far not a drop of water has been observed anywhere on the plumbing under tank.

View attachment 72245
View attachment 72246
My next partial project involved emptying the other 55gal barrel I had in the garage into intended corner in the kitchen. The rodi Barrel I the kitchen was also moved into that corner being that it was finally empty from putting it all into the 210.

The barrels are close enough to the tank that It would be feasible for automatic water changes one day.

However the main mixing station goal is to set it up similar to this below.View attachment 72247
I did order the uniseal bulkheads for the project a few weeks ago. Yet I haven't found the courage/confidence to attempt to the project. Quick connect hoses and the retun pump that can mix saltwater in addtion to moving the saltwater to the tanks.


It will likely take me 2/3 days to get the tank fully filled up including the sump.

The part that will have me really nervous of leaks. The overflow box, drain lines and return from sump through the backward of the tank.

If it passes leak test once full it will be time to test the dual return pumps. Than Mix salt into the tank and start adding structures/ crushed coral substrate. Yet I would want the system running a few days before adding salt to ensure I won't be wasting salt should I have problems.

Tank 210gallon
Sump 58 gallon
Total system volume estimate around 240 gallons.

That liquid teflon tape stuff is amazing but man does it make a mess!

 

[MichaelB]

That liquid teflon tape stuff is amazing but man does it make a mess!

Yea I had to keep a paper towel in hand. Probably got more on me than the pipe threads rookie misfortune.

 

[Srt4eric]

That liquid teflon tape stuff is amazing but man does it make a mess!

I use that and Teflon tape on every threaded connection I make

 

[MichaelB]

So a bit of a update here.

The tank has been successfully holding water for soon to be two weeks.

The totally annoying part is, that I have a leak preventing me from testing the pumps. Adding salt, substrate and rock to get this thing going.

The leak seems to be coming from the Modular overflow box bulkheads. I've taken this thing apart over 15 different times. I think the bulkhead seal from the tank is fine, but it's where the bulk goes through the overflow box water seems to be seaping/ dripping back out of the back of the bulkhead along the threads than dripping down the corner of the overflow boxes and down the back side of the tank.

The leak is bad enough I would have a puddle on the floor in a couple minutes. So I've have had to keep the water below the overflow holes on the back. I haven't been able to raise it enough to check the return lines for leaks or test and tune the dual return pumps.

Silicone the bulkhead!

OK, there's a controversial topic. Here's my situation. I recently drilled two 2" holes for a modular marine overflow in a 210 gallon generic glass tank. I was momentarily distracted when drilling (trying to pour more water into the cooling dam) and I badly chipped the exterior glass when the...

www.reef2reef.com

Searching for help with this issue I found a thread with almost the same issue.


I tried the solution they mentioned getting a gasket sheet. I used the drilling template as they did in that thread to cut proper sized holes.

I cut out the holes using a precision cutting set of razor scaples I have.

I compared the thickness of the gasket sheet to gasket I have and found they weren't thick enough so I folded it over.

It didn't fit perfectly flush especially on one side but I did see the tank leak alot slower than with the bulkhead gasket along. So my thoughts are order thicker bulkhead gasket sheets equal to the actual bulkheads gaskets and hope that it will actually fit flush between the tank and overflow box. Something that won't have to be folded over on it's self.

@Turkeysammich suggested Using a crap ton of silicon which in the thread linked above probably same tank and overflow I'm trying to hook up myself. It would be a potential semi permanent fix. So hopefully I can get it resolved like guy did in that thread.

Otherwise seems a boat load of silicon will be my only choice.

This has me probably annoyed at 8.5 out of 10. At not being able to progress beyond this.

Hoping that this leak won't be the end of the dream tank.

 

[Arvin R]

So a bit of a update here.

View attachment 72544View attachment 72545
The tank has been successfully holding water for soon to be two weeks.

The totally annoying part is, that I have a leak preventing me from testing the pumps. Adding salt, substrate and rock to get this thing going.

The leak seems to be coming from the Modular overflow box bulkheads. I've taken this thing apart over 15 different times. I think the bulkhead seal from the tank is fine, but it's where the bulk goes through the overflow box water seems to be seaping/ dripping back out of the back of the bulkhead along the threads than dripping down the corner of the overflow boxes and down the back side of the tank.

The leak is bad enough I would have a puddle on the floor in a couple minutes. So I've have had to keep the water below the overflow holes on the back. I haven't been able to raise it enough to check the return lines for leaks or test and tune the dual return pumps.
View attachment 72546

Silicone the bulkhead!

OK, there's a controversial topic. Here's my situation. I recently drilled two 2" holes for a modular marine overflow in a 210 gallon generic glass tank. I was momentarily distracted when drilling (trying to pour more water into the cooling dam) and I badly chipped the exterior glass when the...

www.reef2reef.com

Searching for help with this issue I found a thread with almost the same issue.


I tried the solution they mentioned getting a gasket sheet. I used the drilling template as they did in that thread to cut proper sized holes.
View attachment 72547View attachment 72550View attachment 72548View attachment 72549

I cut out the holes using a precision cutting set of razor scaples I have.

I compared the thickness of the gasket sheet to gasket I have and found they weren't thick enough so I folded it over.

View attachment 72551View attachment 72552
It didn't fit perfectly flush especially on one side but I did see the tank leak alot slower than with the bulkhead gasket along. So my thoughts are order thicker bulkhead gasket sheets equal to the actual bulkheads gaskets and hope that it will actually fit flush between the tank and overflow box. Something that won't have to be folded over on it's self.

@Turkeysammich suggested Using a crap ton of silicon which in the thread linked above probably same tank and overflow I'm trying to hook up myself. It would be a potential semi permanent fix. So hopefully I can get it resolved like guy did in that thread.

Otherwise seems a boat load of silicon will be my only choice.

This has me probably annoyed at 8.5 out of 10. At not being able to progress beyond this.

Hoping that this leak won't be the end of the dream tank.

Do you have gaskets on the inside of tank for the bulk head flanges? You shouldn't need gaskets between the tank and the overflow unless you need to space the overflow box so it sits square due to the tanks rim getting in the way.

 

[H2OPlayar]

I had the same leak issue with my 168. Silicone fixed it. Made it a little tougher to take apart, but not terrible. Note that the overflow was not reused because it was a pos. See Will's thread and my thread builds for more info there.

Michael's 168 build

Hello Everyone, My name is Michael and this is my tank journal. I got into aquariums in approximately 2015 when I let go of my crested gecko breeding setup and decided to move from reptiles to fish. I wanted to incorporate a salt water reef tank into my home for quite a long time, so when my...

www.bareefers.org

 

[MichaelB]

Do you have gaskets on the inside of tank for the bulk head flanges? You shouldn't need gaskets between the tank and the overflow unless you need to space the overflow box so it sits square due to the tanks rim getting in the way.

The things I got online said you have to have them between the back of tank and overflow. It's currently whats leaking.

Yes I have them on the flanges. Water is coming out the tank into overflow box, than back out overflow box through holes the bulkheads are in. Maybe through the bulkhead threads I guess.

 

[Arvin R]

The things I got online said you have to have them between the back of tank and overflow. It's currently whats leaking.

Yes I have them on the flanges. Water is coming out the tank into overflow box, than back out overflow box through holes the bulkheads are in. Maybe through the bulkhead threads I guess.

Do you have a gasket on the outside between the bulkhead nuts and the overflow box? Also do not over tighten as this can cause them to leak too. Seated then just a tad bit more (sometimes even just a good hand tight does it). Over tightening can pinch the gasket and raise up a portion of it causing a leak.

 

[Arvin R]

Also I wouldn't fold over the gasket how you did. It does not need to be as thick as the original as long as your bulkheads still have thread left to screw the nuts on fully.

Important part is that it sits square and flush with the tank. And you have proper gaskets on inside tank to flange, and inside external overflow box to nut.

 

[MichaelB]

Do you have a gasket on the outside between the bulkhead nuts and the overflow box? Also do not over tighten as this can cause them to leak too. Seated then just a tad bit more (sometimes even just a good hand tight does it). Over tightening can pinch the gasket and raise up a portion of it causing a leak.

I haven't tried a 3rd gasket before the nut, only because I saw some threads that said it's pointless with the bulkhead threads. That water would still seap through them along the bulkhead threads.


I could try some there if you suggest it however it couldn't hurt at this point.

 

[Srt4eric]

I had the same leak issue with my 168. Silicone fixed it. Made it a little tougher to take apart, but not terrible. Note that the overflow was not reused because it was a pos. See Will's thread and my thread builds for more info there.

Michael's 168 build

Hello Everyone, My name is Michael and this is my tank journal. I got into aquariums in approximately 2015 when I let go of my crested gecko breeding setup and decided to move from reptiles to fish. I wanted to incorporate a salt water reef tank into my home for quite a long time, so when my...

www.bareefers.org

Made it horrible to take apart...

 

[Turkeysammich]

Made it horrible to take apart...

But it didn’t leak wasn’t made to be taken apart. That’s a problem for another day.

 

[MarcosD]

Just to make sure… you have 2 gaskets right? Like this?

 

[richiev]

I always thought the most important gasket was the one inside the water area. My mindset being I don't want water in the bulkhead cutout hole at all. If you only have one on the outside, you're allowing water to get into the hole due to imperfections in the surfaces and water wicking in. If you allow water into that area, then presumably you're screwed because then it gets into the threads and you've got to hope your threads are completely mega super water tight. A gasket won't help with water that's already in the threads, because by definition the gasket isn't threaded.

That being said, I also have had more success on finicky bulkheads with double gaskets, so I tend to do double if I have them handy.

If you already created a secondary gasket, I would put that on the outside and the standard gasket on the inside. Standard being on the inside being what I'd focus on trying first. After that I'd personally smear silicone grease or equivalent on the threads, but you need to be super careful you don't then use the lubrication to make you really crank down the tightness and therefore crack the threads. Cracked threads requiring you to replace it, or just silicone seal it in place semi-foreverz.

 

[MichaelB]

Just to make sure… you have 2 gaskets right? Like this?

Yes, I didn't at first but I tried that as well still leaking. Hence hoping a gasket sheet might seal better. Than the standard gaskets. Adding the second gasket slowed the leak to a trickle instead of a stream.

The folded gasket sheet made it drip. So seems to be something between the two tanks that's the issue.

I will likely try better gasket sheet that don't work maybe silicone or some expert help and a bribe.

 

[popper]

Ga damn leak. Curse you leak!

My modular marine was similar.

i resolved it by cleaning the gasket, tighten the nut but not too tight.

 

[RandyC]

I've been through more modular marine overflows than I can count. Here's some general suggestions.

1. You should only need a bulkhead in two spots. In the tank (between bulkhead flange and tank) and one between the outside of tank and the external overflow box. Using a bulkhead in the external box is not needed. Using a gasket on the nut side can lead to a higher chance of pinching the gasket as the nut is turned while tightening. I used to think that three gaskets were needed, but that isn't the case. When I had leaks, the problem was located elsewhere.

2. Silicon should not be needed. Only in cases where you have a really bad chip when you drilled the hole may it be needed.

3. Bulkheads, even new ones, can be faulty. I've had two brand new bulkheads leak no matter what I did to it.

4. Do not over tighten! You will likely pinch the gasket and sometimes pull the gasket into the hole making so that it doesn't sit flush anymore.

 

[RandyC]

Yes, I didn't at first but I tried that as well still leaking. Hence hoping a gasket sheet might seal better. Than the standard gaskets. Adding the second gasket slowed the leak to a trickle instead of a stream.

The folded gasket sheet made it drip. So seems to be something between the two tanks that's the issue.

I will likely try better gasket sheet that don't work maybe silicone or some expert help and a bribe.

A gasket sheet really shouldn't be any better than a gasket ring. The seal comes as the compression of the gasket forming a seal from pressure directly from the flange and nut. If there isn't enough pressure which would be the case for any part of the gasket sheet not under then flange and nut, a proper seal won't be formed.

If anything, I think it would potentially just mask the problem for a while and then it would bite you in the ass at a later time.

 

[MichaelB]

I've been through more modular marine overflows than I can count. Here's some general suggestions.

1. You should only need a bulkhead in two spots. In the tank (between bulkhead flange and tank) and one between the outside of tank and the external overflow box. Using a bulkhead in the external box shouldn't be needed. Also, using a gasket on the nut side can lead to a higher chance of pinching the gasket as the nut is turned while tightening. I used to think that three gaskets were needed, but that isn't the case. When I had leaks, the problem lied elsewhere.

2. Silicon should not be needed. Only in cases where you have a really bad chip when you drilled the hole may it be needed.

3. Bulkheads, even new ones, can be faulty. I've had two brand new bulkheads leak no matter what I did to it.

4. Do not over tighten! You will likely pinch the gasket and sometimes pull the gasket into the hole making so that it doesn't lie flush anymore.

There are some slight chips on the holes. I Can take pics later