Coral reefer
Past President
I always drill from inside to out since I usually get more chips on the end of the drilling.
I had help drilling it. Definitely no blame game here really greatful I didn't have to drill it myself having never done it before.I always drill from inside to out since I usually get more chips on the end of the drilling.
What I believe his problem is. As with a lot of these modular boxes is the hole in the aquarium isn’t perfect to the hole size of the bulkhead. Also chips in the glass from the holes saw. So it’s really difficult to hit the sweet spot on gasket placement. To over come those imperfections. Just pack it with silicone. You can barely see it when it’s done. View attachment 72687
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Here was my issues. Your may be different. But they are all similar. You see my bulkhead has a flat spot. It’s a leak point. You see the locking nut. It’s not flat. Leak point. You see between the aquarium and the exterior over flow box. Leak point. All those spots be generous with the silicone. You’ll barley see it when it’s all together.
I always drill from inside to out since I usually get more chips on the end of the drilling.
I had help drilling it. Definitely no blame game here really greatful I didn't have to drill it myself having never done it before.
They do seem minor to me, but as @RandyC mentioned could likely not be water tight. Do to the slight imperfections between tank and gaskets.
I can definitely see your point the tank was drilled from the back so chips are on inside. I guess chips would be on back if it was done the other way instead.
I also assume it's better to have chips opposite from the flange bulkheads.
@Turkeysammich I'm not ruling out silicone I actually bought a tube. This is just me being hopeful I wouldn't need it. From your picutures my bulkheads are different. The end of the bulkheads extend well pass the nut in the overflow box. So I couldn't see how to get silicone around the threads like in your pictures. I can easily see using silicone around the flange side bulkhead in the tank where the chips are.
I just wanna consider silicone as only option. I've waited this long figure another week or two can't hurt. I would prefer to resolve leak thing now before it's full of rocks, and livestock etc.
So far still half full of water. I may drain the water out and into a second 55gal barrel I have. In addtion to draining the sump so I can move the tank further from wall. Probably a solid 190 gallons of water to move. Should make it eaiser than the balancing on top ladder step I've been doing .
Didn't know that was s a option. Nut is between like 1-2 inches before end of bulkhead. In otherwords the threads extend over a inch beyond the nut in the overflow box.You can cut the bulkhead as long as the bulkhead extends 1/8-1/4" past the nut after it's been tightened.
Didn't know that was s a option. Nut is between like 1-2 inches before end of bulkhead. In otherwords the threads extend over a inch beyond the nut in the overflow box.
Mini update part 1.
Ok drained the tank, sump, and ato resivor. Took me 1- 55gallon barrel 3 -27 gallon totes, 1 65gallon tote, and 2 5 gallon buckets. Funny part is system was only 75% full.
I was able to than pull the tank away from wall making it easier to access overflow box without balancing on a ladder reaching from the side.
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The right hole of tank looks fairly intact no visible chips worth noting.
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All these picutures are the left side with tbe visible chips also where I see the most water dripping from. Hopefully with the excess of angles the chips while accurately show up.
Also, since the tank is away from the wall, if you just use the gasket that came with the bulkhead and not use that gasket sheet, you should be able to see if the drip is coming from the tank or the overflow box if you fill the tank up to the bulkhead with water again.
2 inch bulkheads.What size bulkheads are those? I dont like how those gaskets look. I have some nice thick rubber ones around here somewhere.
It's borderline almost on the second ring.Your gasket already looks like it's may have an imperfection in it.
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It's too hard to tell from the angle of the pic, but if the chip doesn't go too far past that first raised ring in the gasket, it's probably not your problem.
After you hand tighten, are you using a channel lock wrench or bulkhead wrench to turn another 1/4 to 1/2 turn?
The ones that are on the flange of the bulkheads are flat. These with ridges are the ones I had that were between the tank and overflow box. I didn't Wanna keep taking the bulkhead gaskets on and off. They are they same size others just don't have the ridges.If you got bulkhead caps install them without the overflow box to narrow down to leak need to make sure you can seal the tank first before adding overflow…Gasket ridges/ rings should be against the chipped glass to help imperfections but I prefer the flat ones.Assuming youve cleaned everything with alcohol and glass is dry before installing..You’ve used different bulkheads that your 100% sure have no hairline cracks which can expand with tightening. If the gasket edges are just flush with the shallow chips it most likely will not seal & using a cut larger gasket usually doesn’t work since there’s not enough added pressure on the outer ring of excess gasket to seal the chips..Those shallow outward chips can be deceiving and be a pain in the arss.. Some schedule 80 bulkheads have a touch larger flange and gasket which may work to cover the shallow angled chips better may need to dremel a touch Otherwise go with the next size up bulkhead with new holes.. Unless like others have recommended silicone the threads around the glass then tighten the nut just make sure the silicone is plenty cured before water like others have mentioned..
Good luck!!