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Gablami's Reefer 525 Build

When I need to raise my salinity I just turn off my ATO and manually dump in a gallon of normal salinity saltwater as needed to keep up with evaporation, which for me is about 2g per day. I’d check salinity once a day. I don’t do anything hypertonic.
 
@JVU your salinity probe is wonky too? Mine has grouped together with my temperature probe and shown an inverse graph of each other. I’m not sure what it’s reading since neither measurement is accurate (according to my manual testing).

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@Gablami, I wonder if it might use an algorithm that averages measurements over a period of time and needs to read several outliers before it registers it as being out of the norm. This is just a guess but even if it’s correct, yours went way too long to report it.
 
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@JVU your salinity probe is wonky too? Mine has grouped together with my temperature probe and shown an inverse graph of each other. I’m not sure what it’s reading since neither measurement is accurate (according to my manual testing).

View attachment 9099

@Gablami, I wonder if it might use an algorithm that averages measurements over a period of time and needs to read several outliers before it registers it as being out of the norm. This is just a guess but even if it’s correct, yours went way too long to report it.

Do you have temperature correction turned on in the advanced salinity settings?

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Do you have temperature correction turned on in the advanced salinity settings?

3bac0c436f0d9fa1a76c98c21ee1b761.jpg



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It makes no difference for my issue. It’s a hardware problem. I have an rma number and everything. I just need a time to be able to send it in, which looks like will be soon, once the tank is broken down.
 
That is so scary. Apex really owes you a follow up failure analysis not just a replacement so you know why you should trust the next one.
 
That is so scary. Apex really owes you a follow up failure analysis not just a replacement so you know why you should trust the next one.
Thanks Liz for the support. I doubt apex really cares that much about me. I just think it’s scary because if the water was room temp, like most ATO reservoirs are, then I would not have been alerted to any problem, and the whole tank would have crashed. It’s also one of the dangers of having an “endless” ATO, like people who plumb their reservoir up to their RODI.

Then again, I’m one of those guys that setup a tube that has the potential to siphon into the drain, so maybe I set myself up for that. Just expected the salinity probe to work better.


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Thanks Liz for the support. I doubt apex really cares that much about me. I just think it’s scary because if the water was room temp, like most ATO reservoirs are, then I would not have been alerted to any problem, and the whole tank would have crashed. It’s also one of the dangers of having an “endless” ATO, like people who plumb their reservoir up to their RODI.

Then again, I’m one of those guys that setup a tube that has the potential to siphon into the drain, so maybe I set myself up for that. Just expected the salinity probe to work better.


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Would a check valve work since your drain is below your tank and you're pulling water? I wouldn't imagine it'd be a problem with a masterflex? Guess it would depend on the pressure of the siphon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0105G3HVW/ref=twister_B076DPN652?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
Would a check valve work since your drain is below your tank and you're pulling water? I wouldn't imagine it'd be a problem with a masterflex? Guess it would depend on the pressure of the siphon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0105G3HVW/ref=twister_B076DPN652?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Nevermind. This probably wouldn't work...wasn't thinking straight. I guess it could possibly work depending on what the pressure of the siphon was and it wasn't enough to open the gate valve, but the masterflex was.
 
Note that temperature compensation also means you must have the temperature probe on the same
box as the salinity probe. Which usually means moving it from the main system box.
(Classic version)
 
I’ve been planning for and setting up a frag tank plumbed into the Reefer for awhile now. Finally got it finished over the weekend :).

I really wanted it to look like it was built into the adjacent Reefer, so I wanted the dimensions to 20” wide (width of one of the Reefer cabinet doors). A nuvo black 25g tank was perfect for that. I found a black Reefer 170 stand and placed it sideways. And asked Red Sea to send me two spare parts (a Reefer 525 white door, and a Reefer 170 white door).

Overflow-wise, bought an eshopps small, but it was too wide for the space behind the tank. So I asked modular marine to custom an overflow, which they did for me at no additional cost. Drilling was easy with the included template. Works great and is completely silent. A 1/2 inch bulkhead for locline return was also drilled. I used some smoked vinyl for the backing.

For lighting, I originally thought I was going to go with a kessil a360, but after considering that I was aiming for a lot of acros and an H magnifica, I needed a more powerful light with better spread. Eventually decided on a GHL Mitras LX7. Shopped around but eventually got it new from @scuzy. He was awesome, gave me a great price and even helped me setup the light/software etc. After coming from kessil a700 and t5 hybrid, the controllability of the mitras is a revelation! (Don’t worry, won’t be changing setting too frequently). It is plenty powerful, and has great coverage with its 6 light pucks.

Lastly, had @jestersix make me a custom H magnifica stand. He did it for a surprisingly affordable price and mailed it to me. Two thumbs up!

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And this mag is being delivered tomorrow!

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Stay tuned...


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Yeah I agree. I didn’t really notice it until I looked for it. I can paint it black (or cover with electrical tape. And then add some white in one end :).



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Really clean! Nice!
But seems like a lot of glare. Just the camera?

Suggestion: You might want something so that MP40 dry side does not drop in the frag tank if you bump it.
 
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