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I looked on the Hydros forum and didn't see anyone that's done what you want. Pretty much anything you'd want to connect would have to run on 24v if I recall.

Still should test it occasionally, the auto switch on ones can fail and I've heard of other reefers that thought it would switch on but didn't.

I just changed my battery to grid charge to 80% reserve after reading all this given how little solar we generate in December. We get more sun here than you, but it's barely covering what the house needs during the day. A full charge on the battery still would only last about a day or less...

Just borrow the calibration thermometer and take it home to test. @CaseyP currently has it and you can request it in BARcode (I can show you if you need help)

We've got a club thermometer you can calibrate your heater with. I always am a little wary of random used heaters.

Thanks for the generosity

Killer deal compared to online: https://www.marinecollectors.com/collections/aiptasia-control/products/copperband-butterfly-eating-prepared-foods

Certain silicones can get eaten by urchins too (rare of course given how we don't hear it, but the custom tank guys at RAD blamed them and had to put on armored seams:) These however are we sure it's a worm doing the actual munching or are they just investigating a new hole?

ppm? If so those are pretty normal numbers.

Do you mount frags vertically or horizontally?

Looks like the end of the suicide squad in there!

Looks solar powered lol

If I had any brains I would have decanted prior to filing my reservoir. But at least the draw tubing doesn't go to the bottom in mine.

Oh also if you look at the advanced instructions, I was making a stock solution which is highly concentrated.

The old way was a 5:3 ratio of MgCl to MgSO4 when using two part and is super cheap to make on your own. It is hygroscopic so you'll want a tight fitting container.

I use it since I got a ton cheap but will be moving away from it since it leaves a brown precipitate/scum. It definitely gets warm and you need to have good water motion or it creates a brick on the bottom. Mixing 20g in 8fl oz like the instructions say.

@Ayman got burned with the same issue when he got his second hand RODI. Always swap membranes and resin. Edit: I also don't like these systems where you can't see your resin since you don't know what's exhausting first.

Any point source light will have shadows, that's unavoidable without like T5 or blade style lights. But honestly with your caves and elevation changes, it should look great and you can adjust it forward or back depending on how it looks. Plus you'll get less algae growing on the glass.

I'd stick with what you have unless the lenses are burned out since you didn't have a lot of lighting requirements with that livestock. Otherwise the Kessil a360xe tuna blue would work well and it's on sale currently. I use that on my clams in the same size area, but it can be dialed down...

Definitely leave the pump on, otherwise the chamber gets stagnant and things will grow. It does need cleaning once in awhile, especially if you don't have the cannonball.