Jestersix

Alex’s IM 150 EXT

My hydros ATO is still going strong after 3 years of service and basically no maintenance. Interested to see if you have the same success with it.
 
derek_SR said:
My hydros ATO is still going strong after 3 years of service and basically no maintenance. Interested to see if you have the same success with it.
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The integration is great. The pump itself seems very flimsy but it only needs to process RODI water, so probably good enough - and it is strong. Also, I am bit worried about the tiny triple sensor with the magnet which does not seem to hold the sensor in place as well as the RedSea or the Tunze.
 
I had a water leakage issue with the ‘DIY’ skimmate container setup this week (while traveling).

The 5L container overflowed briefly due to an issue with the Hydros collective not returning fully after feeding, including the return pump. The tank was not running through filtration for approximately 1.5 hours. When I remotely (big mistake) reactivated the devices, the skimmer pushed heavily into the container, which resulted in a mess. Unfortunately, my massive cable issue, which I had previously disclosed, was partially impacted by this, but nothing happened.

A few actions from this.
  1. I wanted to understand why the collective had the issue, as it had never happened before. I only recently connected the various S2 to the Wave Engine LE, and after some initial hiccups with setting this up (separate post), it seemed to work ok. However, there had been issues previously when trying to restart this after feeding, but it would always turn on. One potential problem I identified could be that the Wave Engine LE is being turned off during feed mode. I only accidentally set this up, not intentionally, so I have changed this to always on. Secondly, the wave engine LE should not be connected to a return pump, according to the Hydros Facebook forum and CoralVue customer support. They do not say precisely why, but it appears it is not powerful enough compared to the Wave Engine v2. So I connected the return pump to the Wave Engine V2 and moved two of the four gyres to the Wave Engine LE.
  2. I was planning to temporarily replace the skimmate container with a larger one during vacation, but I could not find one that fits behind the stand and has the proper height for gravity to do its job (see pictures). I found a 5-gallon container that has a good height fit, but it seems impossible to buy a longer skimmer drain hose for the reef Octo Elite 200 int. If anyone knows where to buy this, I would greatly appreciate it.
  3. I had plans to install more leak detectors. I had them previously but moved things around and was now left without them. I did some research, and this one seemed very good. It cost 30 USD. The benefit over the Hydros is that it does not need another cable.
  4. I have to fix this cable mess. But I need help with ideas on what to do. I am currently thinking of a short cabinet with drawers where I can put the various power bricks.

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Alexander1312 said:
I had a water leakage issue with the ‘DIY’ skimmate container setup this week (while traveling).

The 5L container overflowed briefly due to an issue with the Hydros collective not returning fully after feeding, including the return pump. The tank was not running through filtration for approximately 1.5 hours. When I remotely (big mistake) reactivated the devices, the skimmer pushed heavily into the container, which resulted in a mess. Unfortunately, my massive cable issue, which I had previously disclosed, was partially impacted by this, but nothing happened.

A few actions from this.
  1. I wanted to understand why the collective had the issue, as it had never happened before. I only recently connected the various S2 to the Wave Engine LE, and after some initial hiccups with setting this up (separate post), it seemed to work ok. However, there had been issues previously when trying to restart this after feeding, but it would always turn on. One potential problem I identified could be that the Wave Engine LE is being turned off during feed mode. I only accidentally set this up, not intentionally, so I have changed this to always on. Secondly, the wave engine LE should not be connected to a return pump, according to the Hydros Facebook forum and CoralVue customer support. They do not say precisely why, but it appears it is not powerful enough compared to the Wave Engine v2. So I connected the return pump to the Wave Engine V2 and moved two of the four gyres to the Wave Engine LE.
  2. I was planning to temporarily replace the skimmate container with a larger one during vacation, but I could not find one that fits behind the stand and has the proper height for gravity to do its job (see pictures). I found a 5-gallon container that has a good height fit, but it seems impossible to buy a longer skimmer drain hose for the reef Octo Elite 200 int. If anyone knows where to buy this, I would greatly appreciate it.
  3. I had plans to install more leak detectors. I had them previously but moved things around and was now left without them. I did some research, and this one seemed very good. It cost 30 USD. The benefit over the Hydros is that it does not need another cable.
  4. I have to fix this cable mess. But I need help with ideas on what to do. I am currently thinking of a short cabinet with drawers where I can put the various power bricks.

View attachment 69392View attachment 69393View attachment 69394View attachment 69395View attachment 69396
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For the skimmer line, go on AliExpress and look up silicone tubing. Ideally use a caliper to measure your current one, but a ruler should get you close enough. Err on the side of the outer number being slightly thicker and the inner number slightly smaller than you think if you can't guess the exact size.

You need the outer number to not be too thin itor the tubing easily collapses, and the inner being too big makes it a leaky connection.

Buy a bunch of different sizes at once. Usually can make it to the bay area in a week in my experience, but that's before tariffs. Very cheap. Buy a bunch of tubing for long dosing lines while at it.

Also I'd be careful about that external skimmer dump into a jug while on vacation. If the skimmer goes crazy it'll pump into the cup, which then will fill into the jug. Then the ATO will kick on dropping salinity and keeping the water level up, which then will keep water flowing into the cup and jug, which then can mean a salinity crash and a flooded floor.

Mitigation for that risk is either keep that jug sealed and everything water tight, so when it fills the cup will just bubble into the tank. Alternatively a float valve sensor in the jug.

The other mitigation is have a valve on the skimmer dump line, and ask a tank sitter to open then close it when they're there if possible. Or put the skimmer jug over the sump so if overflowing it just flows back.
 
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Another thing - You need to delay your skimmer by a minute or two when the pumps come back on, because the water level is super high in your sump - which is what causes the skimmer to overflow the skimmate container.

If you program a 90 second delay your skimmer won’t turn on again until the sump water level is back to normal.
 
derek_SR said:
Another thing - You need to delay your skimmer by a minute or two when the pumps come back on, because the water level is super high in your sump - which is what causes the skimmer to overflow the skimmate container.

If you program a 90 second delay your skimmer won’t turn on again until the sump water level is back to normal.
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Yes, correct. I did mean to mention this. I usually have a 10 minute delay but reduced it recently to 5 minutes. Remember my return flow is VERY slow, approx 1.5 times or less tank turnover per hour, so I need to wait longer for the sump level to get back to normal. But good point.
 
Similar to @MichaelB, we have started yesterday with the projectr to move all of this:

IMG_7491.jpegIMG_7492.jpegIMG_7493.jpeg

Into this.

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For those of you who have kids, you might know that this is IKEA's toy storage combination, TROFAST. I am using a different setup with the trays and the very right one is empty as this is where the power back up Delta 2 fits in very nicely.

I have looked around a while and really wanted something with drawers. Also, I needed something that is more flexible as I keep changing things and I like the space between the trays for the cable.

It is not the prettiest solution but hopefully a compromise between funtionality and not being an eye sore. Still, I had to find a way to fix this cable mess quickly.

Will post when done.
 
Alexander1312 said:
Similar to @MichaelB, we have started yesterday with the projectr to move all of this:

View attachment 69423View attachment 69424View attachment 69425

Into this.

View attachment 69426

For those of you who have kids, you might know that this is IKEA's toy storage combination, TROFAST. I am using a different setup with the trays and the very right one is empty as this is where the power back up Delta 2 fits in very nicely.

I have looked around a while and really wanted something with drawers. Also, I needed something that is more flexible as I keep changing things and I like the space between the trays for the cable.

It is not the prettiest solution but hopefully a compromise between funtionality and not being an eye sore. Still, I had to find a way to fix this cable mess quickly.

Will post when done.
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My garage looks ten times worse and less safe lol. But I definitely see the merit of making things safe and more clean.

The DH power strips are very cool and not crazy expensive. With the buttons to turn off different equipment. For the equipment not on a smart power strip or controller connected outet.

Screenshot_20250518_111102_Google.jpg

Picture for refrence.

Makes crap like water change easy for killing ato and wave makers etc.
And with labels if ur not home easy to tell someone to turn x switch off, verse having them finding a specific cord in a mess of cords.

Thanks for sharing looking foward to seeing the final project.
 
MichaelB said:
My garage looks ten times worse and less safe lol. But I definitely see the merit of making things safe and more clean.

The DH power strips are very cool and not crazy expensive. With the buttons to turn off different equipment. For the equipment not on a smart power strip or controller connected outet.

View attachment 69427
Picture for refrence.

Makes crap like water change easy for killing ato and wave makers etc.
And with labels if ur not home easy to tell someone to turn x switch off, verse having them finding a specific cord in a mess of cords.

Thanks for sharing looking foward to seeing the final project.
Click to expand...
I used to like the KASA power strips but have now almost entirely switched to Hydros.
 
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Alexander1312 said:
I used to like the KASA power stips but have now almost entirely switched to Hydros.
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Mine comes with 4 outlets so will still need the strip. I maybe get a hydos outlet at some point for this tank for everything else lights powerheads etc. But not a immediate concern. as long as the important equipment is on the hydros. Skimmer, return pump, maybe heater.
 
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