Kessil

Connected QT tank?

rygh

Guest
I have not had the best luck quarantining fish. :(
And I had a pretty good setup. Foam + carbon filter, and foam filter was pre-run in the
main system to build up bacteria.
But still, a fair number died. Very frustrating.
I know a fair amount will not survive no matter what, given how they were caught and so on.
And yes, I have made mistakes, especially with vacations.

I have had even less luck treating sick fish.
My success rate with medicines is close to 0%.
And I have tried pretty carefully. Copper test kit, etc.

So my new plan is to connect my QT tank in with my main display tank system!!!
:eek:
But connected VERY carefully.

The return from Quarantine to DT-sump will go through three filters.
First, a simple filter pad, replaced every few days, to get rid of most of the detritus.
Then a 20 micron filter. Basically a converted tap water filter.
Then through a good UV filter.
The QT/DT water flow will be very low, like around 0.1 GPM.
That is key to getting enough dwell time in the UV filter for it to be really effective.
It is also impossible to get a lot of flow through a gravity fed 20 micron filter anyway.

So the theory:
1) Protect my DT against incoming pathogens using fine filter + UV
2) Provide very high quality water to new fish in QT.

Obviously, there is no way to medicate sick fish in QT using this plan.
But since I have had nearly zero success with that anyway, it is not a big issue.
I think simply relaxing in high quality water is probably as good.

After QT, everything gets shut down and chlorine sterilized.

QT tank itself will probably be around 40G, with an air stone, heater, and power heads.

Crazy?
 
...I'd worry the UV wasn't getting everything.
Yes, that was my biggest concern also.
Key is combining it with very low flow, and a 20 micron filter.
The smaller the microbe, the more likely it is killed by UV.
The larger the microbe, the more likely it will be caught by the filter.
The dwell time at those flow rates is really long, perhaps 30 seconds? Not sure.
But way more than the 2-3 seconds normally.

Ich is 30 microns, so both filter and UV should affect that.

Nothing is perfect of course.
But it is a numbers game.
There are decent odds that a fish after QT is still diseased.
If this allows me to QT longer, with better quality, it reduces those odds.
A tradeoff.
 
I like the idea an experiment. Only other option I've considered would be a daily water change from dt to qt, and qt to waste. Wouldn't be too crazy to automate for someone like you...
 
I like the idea an experiment. Only other option I've considered would be a daily water change from dt to qt, and qt to waste. Wouldn't be too crazy to automate for someone like you...
Hmm, an intriguing idea. Certainly safer.

But the problem is scale, and the plan also needs to include a replenishment of DT salt water.

Assuming you have minimal biological activity, I think the recommendation is about
a 20% water change every day. For a 30G QT tank, lets call it 6 GPD.
Over 6 weeks of QT, that is 250 gallons.
So clearly as you for DT=>QT=>Waste, you need to add salt water back to DT to match.

Certainly doable with peristaltic pumps and some detailed timers.
One pumps from DT=>QT, and overflow goes to waste.
One pumps from pre-mixed SW barrel to DT.
Mismatches between pumps would result in slight salinity issues in DT, but since it is a short term
period, that can easily be measured and compensated.
Downside is mixing 50G of salt water each week.

Well, and the QT water quality is marginal.
For the original idea, of about 5 GPH, that is 120 GPD changed, versus 6.
The 6 could be raised of course, but only within limits.
 
Yeah, not perfect maybe, but also no risk of cross contamination(until you add fish to dt), and added benefit of consistent small water changes.
 
Yeah daily water changes seems like a better way to go about keeping similar parameters. Also after fish is QT'd simply dump all that water, and refill with fresh salt water make it part of a water change on your whole system and have the QT tank inline with the display when it's not being used, that way it's actually set up and ready to go as needed, new fish, turn a valve to isolate it and go with the water change bit.
 
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