High Tide Aquatics

DIY Fuge LEDs, Lumia 5.2

rygh

BOD
BOD
I decided to make some fancy nice lights for my Fuge.
I want the fuge to have more than just a little frag rack, so it needs some better lighting.
Plus this is a big experiment for new LEDs that may replace my main tank lights.
Otherwise I probably would have bought something off the shelf.

My fuge is about 50 Gallons, part of a 100G sump system.

LEDS
Fuge will have two Lumia 5.2 clusters.
light_layout.jpg

Lumia 5.2:
Each has 5 channels:
Channel 1 - 3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel)
Channel 2 - Royal Blue (base blue spectrum)
Channel 3 - 3 XT-E Netural White and 2 XT-E Warm White (base white color)
Channel 4 - 2 Turquoise and 3 CREE XPE2 Blue (enhanced color spectrum)
Channel 5 - 3 Hyper Violet (430nm) and 2 True Violet (410nm) (Violet channel)

WHY THIS ONE ???
I like the Warm + Neutral white usage in particular, instead of Cool-white.
The other colors seem like they will fill in well.
Lots of violet.
So-so cost at $100 per cluster.
But if it does not look good, I have a few others I may test out.

Electronics:
The APEX will be the main level controller. One channel out, controls overall light level.
That 0-10V signal will go to a DIY Arduino board, which will convert that to PWM for each channel.
To tune each channel level, I will have a nice simple potentiometer knob, connected to the Arduino.
Then normal Meanwell LDD-HW LED drivers, connected to a good 48V power supply.
electrncs.jpg
 
I know this is really a trial run for your main display but don't most refugium lighting focus more on the red/yellow part of the spectrum?
 
I know this is really a trial run for your main display but don't most refugium lighting focus more on the red/yellow part of the spectrum?
All depends on what you grow in there.
For me, I plan to grow real corals, not cheato or other algae.
In fact, I might grow SPS there, and leave the main tank LPS. A bit backwards from most people perhaps.

I have another section in the sump for an algae scrubber or Chaeto.
 
Yes, there is the Meanwell ELN series of supplies.
AC line voltage in, constant current out.

But three problems:
1) Yes, Apex only has 4 outputs, but I need 5 channels.
2) Cost does not scale to larger systems.
For 1 strand: ELN = $30, Power supply + DC driver = $30 +$5
For 5 strands: ELN = $30*5 = $150. Power supply + DC driver = $40 +$5*5 = *75
For 25 strands (main display) ELN = $30*25 = $750. Power supply + DC = $75 + $5*25 = $200
3) Maximum inrush current.
A given power supply can draw 40A at power on. One is ok, but 25 = 1,000 A. Good way to pop breakers.
 
Quick picture of the current Fuge.
Right now it just has some old DIY LED lights from an earlier build on a long ago 55G.
They really just cover the frag rack, and poorly at that.
IMG_1126.JPG
 
Electronics are all done and even tested.
I hooked an old led to each channel.

I rather like having simple old-school knobs to turn instead of poking around on websites and such.

But STILL WAITING for ledgroupbuy to ship the diodes. A few weeks late already. Supposedly soon...

fuge_led_elec.jpg
 
Electronics are all done and even tested.
I hooked an old led to each channel.

I rather like having simple old-school knobs to turn instead of poking around on websites and such.

But STILL WAITING for ledgroupbuy to ship the diodes. A few weeks late already. Supposedly soon...

View attachment 5670
Man, I almost texted you today to see if there was any update.
 
Finally receive the Lumia LEDs yesterday!
Did a quick test last night, and they definitely produce a ton of light.
Real assembly, mounting, and pictures may have to wait for the weekend.

Debating on how to mount them also.
Screws and thermal paste, or glue them down with thermal epoxy ???
Screws points are at the very outer edge of the MPCB, so I worry about good contact if there is any bending.
Especially after connecting optics.
On the other hand, if I epoxy, any problems or changes means literally grinding them off.
 
Well make sure the board lays flat, if it does then screws should be fine. Remember thermal paste isn't butter you're not supposed to slather it on, it's main use is to fill tiny little air gaps caused by scratching. You might get away with smaller boards putting a drop in and letting the screws force it out, but with those larger lumia boards that wouldn't be terribly smart
 
I've been looking at options for heat sinks for these. What are the dimensions of the pcb the leds are attached to? They don't list it on their site.
 
Funny note on leadgroupbuy:
They sent me my order.
They also accidentally sent me someone else's order. 3 Lumia, so not cheap.
I sent them a message to customer support, but still no response.
 
LIGHTS DONE!

Finished. Quiet happy with them.
They put out a ton of light, and I definitely see the difference from the old royal-blue + cool white lights I had.

LUX (not PAR) , on max, centered between the two = 50,000
That is more than the hazy sunshine we had this afternoon.
So rougly 1/3 of true tropical sun. A lot.

I set them to about 1/3 for now. Apex controls the on/off/ramp times.

As large as the heat sink is, I might need a small fan for full 100% power.
I measured it over 110 after about an hour. On a hot day with the garage closed, could go higher.

Amazingly, the color I like best is with all the channels set the same.
I thought for sure I would have to tweak it more.
 
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