First tank - 20 G Long

[impcassette]

Current Equipment [Edited]:
20 Gallon Long Aqueon
Aquaclear 50 HOB
Hipargero A30 adjustable light (plan to set pretty white for macroalgae, will play around with)
Cheap powerhead (800 gph running at the moment, getting pretty circular flow with the AC50 on the other side)
DIY glass panels for a lid (concerned about evaporation -> mold) also used some titanium mesh to block off region above filter.
Small pump feeding outside air into lid if gas exchange becomes an issue with the lid
Grounding probe, heaters [w/ controller soon]
Magus MiniQ Skimmer [soon, requires slit in aqueon rim]
Fzone ATO [soon, may require small (DIY?) waveguard]

Contents:
18 lbs dry CaribSea 'live' rock
2 lbs fiji pink caribsea arag-alive
Instant Ocean Salt
Planning to dose chaetogrow

Status:
Cycling w/ Ammonium Chloride
Lights have been off for the initial stages.
Still high NO2, only been a week. NH3 dropped within days.
Initially had at 1.020/83F which heard can speed cycling, brought to 1.025/78F since planning to add macroalgae soon.

Parameters (ppm):
NH3 ~ 0, NO2 ~ 10ppm, PO4 ~ 0.1ppm, 8.15 pH, 8.45 dKH, 78 degrees.
This is using treated tap water, aware not recommended but curious if it's possible.
Tap has Cu below Salifert detection when evaporated to a 10x concentration. I run it through carbon and cuprisorb
before salinating to be safe. [Edit: hah maybe not, RO/DI incoming]

[Edit] plans:
Adding some macroalgae I ordered soon
Start testing Ca for the halimeda?
Will add cuc slowly, depending on what's to eat.
3 to 5G weekly water changes

 

[MichaelB]

Equipment:
20 Gallon Long Aqueon
Aquaclear 50 HOB
Hipargero A30 adjustable light (plan to set pretty white for macroalgae, will play around with)
Cheap powerhead (800 gph running at the moment, getting pretty circular flow with the AC50 on the other side)
DIY glass panels for a lid (concerned about evaporation -> mold) also used some titanium mesh to block off region above filter.
Small pump feeding outside air into lid if gas exchange becomes an issue with the lid
Grounding probe, heaters.

View attachment 68578
View attachment 68579

Contents:
18 lbs dry CaribSea 'live' rock
2 lbs fiji pink caribsea arag-alive
Instant Ocean Salt
Planning to dose Fe Gluconate for the macros

Status:
Cycling w/ Ammonium Chloride
Lights have been off for the initial stages.
Still high NO2, only been a week. NH3 dropped within days.
Initially had at 1.020/83F which heard can speed cycling, brought to 1.025/78F since planning to add some macroalgae soon.

Parameters (ppm):
NH3 ~ 0, NO2 ~ 10ppm, PO4 ~ 0.1ppm, 8.15 pH, 8.45 dKH, 78 degrees.
This is using treated tap water, aware not recommended but curious if it's possible with a tank that I
want to be high nutrient and look like some of the "display refugiums" people post about.
Tap has Cu below Salifert detection when evaporated to a 10x concentration. I run it through carbon and cuprisorb
before salinating to be safe.

Future plans:
Adding some macroalgae I ordered soon
Start testing Ca for the halimeda?
Will add cuc slowly, depending on what's to eat.
3 to 5G weekly water changes
Will add a blenny at some point (tailspot? concerned algae blenny could starve) or young clown pair.
ATO/auto feeders before traveling

Just behind filtration or skimmer. Appropriate lighting for what you intend to grow in the tank, I would list ATO in importance.

Yes you can add water every few days by hand. However ato keeps the salinity almost spot on stable. The manual methods leads to constant salinity fluctuations.

All that to say it's a key part of a reef tank, not just for when you travel.

It just makes life easier. Fill up ato reservoir once a week or once every two weeks if you have low evaporation. So effortless compared to the daily hand fills.

Looking forward to following your reefing journey.

I'm not sure of your location but consider Joining the southbay tank tours next Saturday. It would be a opportunity to see some of the amazing tanks our memebers have. Great way to get more inspiration.

Good Luck!!!

 

[impcassette]

Just behind filtration or skimmer. Appropriate lighting for what you intend to grow in the tank, I would list ATO in importance.

Yes you can add water every few days by hand. However ato keeps the salinity almost spot on stable. The manual methods leads to constant salinity fluctuations.

All that to say it's a key part of a reef tank, not just for when you travel.

It just makes life easier. Fill up ato reservoir once a week or once every two weeks if you have low evaporation. So effortless compared to the daily hand fills.

Looking forward to following your reefing journey.

I'm not sure of your location but consider Joining the southbay tank tours next Saturday. It would be a opportunity to see some of the amazing tanks our memebers have. Great way to get more inspiration.

Good Luck!!!

I was under the impression that large quantities of macroalgae can avoid need for a skimmer and may even need NO3 and PO4 dosing, especially if I keep bioload to one fish. Do you think that’ll be a big issue? Planning on an ATO. Thank you for the advice!

 

[impcassette]

Just behind filtration or skimmer. Appropriate lighting for what you intend to grow in the tank, I would list ATO in importance.

Yes you can add water every few days by hand. However ato keeps the salinity almost spot on stable. The manual methods leads to constant salinity fluctuations.

All that to say it's a key part of a reef tank, not just for when you travel.

It just makes life easier. Fill up ato reservoir once a week or once every two weeks if you have low evaporation. So effortless compared to the daily hand fills.

Looking forward to following your reefing journey.

I'm not sure of your location but consider Joining the southbay tank tours next Saturday. It would be a opportunity to see some of the amazing tanks our memebers have. Great way to get more inspiration.

Good Luck!!!

Also in east bay sadly

 

[tribbitt]

I was under the impression that large quantities of macroalgae can avoid need for a skimmer and may even need NO3 and PO4 dosing, especially if I keep bioload to one fish. Do you think that’ll be a big issue? Planning on an ATO. Thank you for the advice!

I agree with Michael on the ATO, it's really convenient. As for the skimmer, it isn't just for removing nutrients, it serves other purposes too (oxygenation, takes out some allelopathic compounds, etc). It's by no means necessary depending on the type of tank you want to run, but it can definitely help out in some cases. From a "take care of fish waste" point of view, you will probably be fine without (might need wc depending on what fish, and what macro + corals)

 

[impcassette]

I agree with Michael on the ATO, it's really convenient. As for the skimmer, it isn't just for removing nutrients, it serves other purposes too (oxygenation, takes out some allelopathic compounds, etc). It's by no means necessary depending on the type of tank you want to run, but it can definitely help out in some cases. From a "take care of fish waste" point of view, you will probably be fine without (might need wc depending on what fish, and what macro + corals)

Interesting, thanks for the input.

 

[MichaelB]

I was under the impression that large quantities of macroalgae can avoid need for a skimmer and may even need NO3 and PO4 dosing, especially if I keep bioload to one fish. Do you think that’ll be a big issue? Planning on an ATO. Thank you for the advice!

I would say that it’s possible to do things without a skimmer or any filtration, and use microalage alone.

However that's typically not normal for most. Possible yes, but easy to make it yeild intended results likely not.

I would recommend a small nano skimmer if at all possible. Or just keep a eye out here for a used one to come along. Skimmers just really make things easier just starting a new tank in my opinion.

If you want a microalage only tank I would guess it would possibly take well over a year to get things dialed in and running smoothly.

It would also be very difficult in your case seeing your starting with new rock, and new sand. Getting some rubble or sand from a few reefers with older well established tanks would help you alot. Verse starting from a completely sterile new tank in terms of biological/ bacteria diversitry.

 

[Alexander1312]

Also in east bay sadly

Nothing wrong with being in the east bay . Hope all goes well with this setup.

 

[PjFish]

Welcome to Bar
You've most likely researched ahead so here's some more repeated tips!
Dito adding different kinds of beneficial bacteria or any real live rocks that's the real golden ticket.. kilo bricks are good but ugly in a dt..! I've run several 10 to 40 gallon tanks for years with seachem hob which I prefer have had one on a 40 for the last 4 years no issues and just broke down a 20 long that was running two years !. One thing zero worries on any plumbing leaks lol..I do run tanks with sumps which gives you a lot more room and control as well.. The hang on back skimmers are either huge or small and can overflow into tank so I've never used one on those tanks just keep up with water changes and fairly low bioload and all good keep it simple!.. I like putting the hob center back wall so tank gets even flow then small power head back wall each corner to prevent dead spots. Seems like debris just don't get sucked up as easily with hob on end and just settle on far end bottom especially with rock structures center of tank.. Check out some other budget reef lights you will have a lot better success and raise the light up off the glass a bit plus no need for lights while cycling! Add an temp control like inkbird to heater to prevent cooking the inhabitants..Toss out the sponge in the hob they can clog easy and a pain to clean! Just cut some filter floss to size then just toss out when dirty. Can run a bag of Chemi-pure elite or carbon in the hob as needed works great! What's the TDS of your water? Members have rodi systems routinely for free or great deals try and get one down the road..
There's alota of killer color macros out there have fun..Xenia will definitely help with nutrient control I have several sized football rocks of it which don't seem to ever spread..
Don't be afraid to scrub or take a rocks out and scrub them if you get the bad algea ugly stages which can take over small tanks! That's the benefits of good old live rock you just bypass the uglies and basically an instant cycle!
Best of luck keep it fun!

 

[impcassette]

Welcome to Bar
You've most likely researched ahead so here's some more repeated tips!
Dito adding different kinds of beneficial bacteria or any real live rocks that's the real golden ticket.. kilo bricks are good but ugly in a dt..! I've run several 10 to 40 gallon tanks for years with seachem hob which I prefer have had one on a 40 for the last 4 years no issues and just broke down a 20 long that was running two years !. One thing zero worries on any plumbing leaks lol..I do run tanks with sumps which gives you a lot more room and control as well.. The hang on back skimmers are either huge or small and can overflow into tank so I've never used one on those tanks just keep up with water changes and fairly low bioload and all good keep it simple!.. I like putting the hob center back wall so tank gets even flow then small power head back wall each corner to prevent dead spots. Seems like debris just don't get sucked up as easily with hob on end and just settle on far end bottom especially with rock structures center of tank.. Check out some other budget reef lights you will have a lot better success and raise the light up off the glass a bit plus no need for lights while cycling! Add an temp control like inkbird to heater to prevent cooking the inhabitants..Toss out the sponge in the hob they can clog easy and a pain to clean! Just cut some filter floss to size then just toss out when dirty. Can run a bag of Chemi-pure elite or carbon in the hob as needed works great! What's the TDS of your water? Members have rodi systems routinely for free or great deals try and get one down the road..
There's alota of killer color macros out there have fun..Xenia will definitely help with nutrient control I have several sized football rocks of it which don't seem to ever spread..
Don't be afraid to scrub or take a rocks out and scrub them if you get the bad algea ugly stages which can take over small tanks! That's the benefits of good old live rock you just bypass the uglies and basically an instant cycle!
Best of luck keep it fun!

Thanks! Is the goal of raising the lights just for more coverage? TDS of 43, good for tap water standards I guess but certainly very high for a tank. My issue isn't the RODI cost - it's having no viable way to attach one in my apartment without breaking my lease. I guess I could just buy it per gallon though... I can only have this tank up for ~12 months so I'm just in it to learn, play around. Water report says tons of silica so I may be just be on track to grow a little diatom garden cerith farm, idk, wherever it takes me. I'm kinda just fascinated by the chemistry/ecosystem of it all.

 

[tribbitt]

Thanks! Is the goal of raising the lights just for more coverage? TDS of 43, good for tap water standards I guess but certainly very high for a tank. My issue isn't the RODI cost - it's having no viable way to attach one in my apartment without breaking my lease. I guess I could just buy it per gallon though... I can only have this tank up for ~12 months so I'm just in it to learn, play around. Water report says tons of silica so I may be just be on track to grow a little diatom garden cerith farm, idk, wherever it takes me. I'm kinda just fascinated by the chemistry/ecosystem of it all.

There are some which have screw-on adapters for sinks

In my case, I was able to avoid drilling or cutting anything, but plumbed it under the sink by adding a tube with a junction in it. No idea if it’s ideal but i’ve had no issues (and we have a resident pro plumber who can advise you)

 

[psidriven]

Something like this.

Ro adapter

 

[PjFish]

Like above alota options for rodi sink adapters.. The ones with the diverter switch tend to dripa bit overtime since their pretty cheaply made so you get what ya pay for..But definitely something to consider since you mentioned learning water chemistry!! Without using proper water at the git go with zero tds your water chemistry tests may not be reliable and will always be wondering if tap is the culprit when diagnosing. During summer the phosphates in my tap get pretty crazy due to all the algea in the reservoirs despite only 80ish tds from tap in which the rodi removes most all. Only thing you may need a water pressure booster using the sink if your pressure is low..

 

[PjFish]

You asked"Is the goal of raising the lights just for more coverage?"
Yes coverage is a bonus but more so on saltwater contact or micro sprays that build up which can corrode lights rather quickly like anything near saltwater.. Plus having only a clear jump net over the tank the top down view is hard to beat!. I did run hob refugium on the 20 long so I could hide the heater and other equipment there's all kinds on the market some have protein skimmers ... just the smaller ones are a pita to clean so stick with the larger ones if go that route
What field is your Phd in?

 

[impcassette]

Awesome thanks for the tips. Chemistry but more physics adjacent than anything that applicable here

 

[impcassette]

Update: Looming dino issue? Tank finished cycling No2->No3, added an ATO and started using RO/DI top off, put in probably too much macroalgae, mainly codium and a range of graciliaria two days ago hoping to get some life this weekend. Most seemed pretty healthy apart from some white tips at first, recovered well. I did have the lights on pretty long (14hr) after reading it helps prevent them going sexual when stressed etc and that codium likes it, but…

My issue is that the macros are sucking up too much nitrate too fast (haven’t done a water change yet and it went from 15ish ppm to near zero in 2 days) and I started seeing some small patches of dinos show up yesterday (even with what I presume are tons of silicates from the initial fill with 30-40 TDS tap?) I’m yet to check but I’m guessing these are dinos not diatoms (idk what type yet) based on online images and going by the “bubbles”. I am ghost feeding and dosing a little bit of ammonium chloride for now to try and get nutrients up (looking into ordering some po4 and no3 salts to have in case). Does anyone have suggestions for how I can prevent the dinos from taking a hold? My reading seems to point towards adding pods/phyto and/or bacteria from an established tank asap, cutting lights (although don’t want to turn off entirely and damage the macros), upping nitrate and phosphate, uv, peroxide, waiting it out. I had put a little chaetogrow in with the macros but may not continue after reading that iron may help dinos gain edge. Also I assume it would help to add some inhabitants when I first can. Should I be concerned about dino toxicity to what consumes them? Will check it out what type it is soon.

Photos: small bubbly structures on rock, little patches in sand with sparse bubbles.

I guess it’s not super surprising in retrospect that going from a dry rock cycle relatively barren ecosystem into immediately into adding a lot of nutrient hungry algae and light and iron would help dinos take hold but I had thought with my dirty ass tap water I’d have a diatom issue instead? Fun mistakes to learn from maybe!

 

[impcassette]

Actually reading that adding more nitrogen may be exacerbating and I could have a high N/P ratio… P now also coming in around 0 when it was 0.1 or so prior. Hmm. (Source)

 

[derek_SR]

I think your tank is way too young to be agonizing over N and P ratios. Your nutrients are going to be all over the place and there’s going to be all kinds of phases of weird gunk and algae and Dino’s and everything else. Get a couple fish and a couple cheap corals and let the tank work itself out for a few months without overreacting to every test result, IMO.

Just perform regular water changes on a tank that small and you’ll be just fine for a very long time.

 

[BlueSallymandr]

Beginner here, but when my new tank started to show dinos I threw in a bunch of pods and turned the lights off for a few days. Problem solved. I don't know how a blackout would affect your macroalgae but pods are probably a good idea anyway since your tanks is so new. You said east bay, if you live near High Tide Aquatics, Kenny has pods and can also set you up with a nice quarantined fish if you are ready.

 

[impcassette]

I think your tank is way too young to be agonizing over N and P ratios. Your nutrients are going to be all over the place and there’s going to be all kinds of phases of weird gunk and algae and Dino’s and everything else. Get a couple fish and a couple cheap corals and let the tank work itself out for a few months without overreacting to every test result, IMO.

Just perform regular water changes on a tank that small and you’ll be just fine for a very long time.

Oh awesome thanks, appreciate the advice!