Coral reefer
Past President
Salifert is good for that range
Hanna Nitrate low range checker available
- Thread starter JVU
- Start date
max_nano
Supporting Member
theres gotta be a way to dilute and test again for times when the result is in one of the larger ranges like the 10-25. Would testing with .5mL tank water + .5mL freshly mixed water allow you to run the test and just double the results?
NanoCrazed
Guest
So i went back to the manual, and one thing i missed doing my test at 2AM is there's a calcuted method for dilution that spans 0-50ppm.
There's probably a margin of error in there of course at the 0-5ppm range in turn but seems like the best catch all approach unless you are certain you are def <5ppm.
BUT, it is extra steps and testing time...
There's probably a margin of error in there of course at the 0-5ppm range in turn but seems like the best catch all approach unless you are certain you are def <5ppm.
BUT, it is extra steps and testing time...
NanoCrazed
Guest
UPDATE:
Did a dilution run today and a salifert test to see how close the two are...
VERDICT: They're pretty close... Salifert had the sample around the 10ppm range, Hanna said 9.8 (just have to remember to do the math and multiply the results by 10)
The process adds a bit of extra time that can be done quickly once you're familiar with it... BUT it does require you to have freshly made SW on hand.
The steps are to take 1ml of tank water, as fresh SW to 10ml line in vial, draw out 7ml, throw out the remaining 3ml... then you put the 7ml back into the vial and follow the standard process / instructions. (lol)
But again, for that 0.2ppm accuracy, i spent 20 mins+...
Did a dilution run today and a salifert test to see how close the two are...
VERDICT: They're pretty close... Salifert had the sample around the 10ppm range, Hanna said 9.8 (just have to remember to do the math and multiply the results by 10)
The process adds a bit of extra time that can be done quickly once you're familiar with it... BUT it does require you to have freshly made SW on hand.
The steps are to take 1ml of tank water, as fresh SW to 10ml line in vial, draw out 7ml, throw out the remaining 3ml... then you put the 7ml back into the vial and follow the standard process / instructions. (lol)
But again, for that 0.2ppm accuracy, i spent 20 mins+...
NanoCrazed
Guest
Nyah... you have to start from scratch...
That said, with the dilution (calculated) measurement, the range is 0 - 50ppm... but you give up at least 17 mins more of your life over the salifert... to get to the same results for levels over 5ppm. Good news, you only have to do the test once...
Appreciate you taking the time and energy to do this for us. I would've bought one of these, but - after seeing how big of a pain it is/your assessment - I'll be using the money for the Hanna salinity checker instead.
max_nano
Supporting Member
I meant diluting and testing again with the salifert. Because it’s possible to get into the range where it has a large gap between colors on the chart. If it was half diluted with fresh sw without nitrates then could the result be doubled?
Let’s say you do the salifert and are between 10-25ppm could you then do the test again with the sample diluted and double the results.
Vincerama2
Guest
In general, are the Hanna colorimeter tests worth it?
They are quite pricey, but on the other hand, comparing colors can be pretty difficult with other tests.
V
They are quite pricey, but on the other hand, comparing colors can be pretty difficult with other tests.
V
Depends on which colorimetric test you're talking about.
Alkalinity and ULR phosphate? Absolutely. The Hanna Alkalinity checker is probably my best "non-essential" purchase for the reef tank.
Calcium? This one's hit or miss because of the fairly involved protocol to test, and the ease of other kits.
To be honest I'm not sure. I have the alk and phos testers. Both their precision and accuracy leave much to be desired. I'm also not sure it matters to be that exact. You arent going to keep any of these parameters rock solid for long periods, they will always start to drift (corals growing, more/ less feeding, whatever)
I used to do multiple alk tests, and the whole clear vial /reagent vial multi test and take the average. But really, who cares? I have both a trident and a KHG on my aquarium right now. I don't necessarily think either of those is always exact either. But they give me a way to monitor, and investigate if something is way out of wack. I use a cheap and easy API alk test frequently on my tank without an auto tester. It tells me generally the range I'm in, and that works well enough. Occasionally I check it with the Hanna, and it's generally in the same range as the API
I think when we try to hit exact numbers is when we start to screw ourselves up. For instance the salifert nitrate test that @max_nano is talking about. Let's say you can't tell any gradient between the 2 colors, therefore can't tell if it's closer to 25 or 10. Does it matter? If it's 22 or 12 I would hope the method of approach would be the same, slowly start to decrease until you are around or below 5.
When you get a digital readout with a number, I think in the back of our minds we believe the number is somehow inherently more accurate.
Vincerama2
Guest
I see. I found Alk and Ca tests to be pretty straight forward. I use the salifert kits and it's "add drops until the color changes" and it's pretty drastic when it changes. But the ones that are "Which of these shades of red is it?" Drive me nuts. The API Nitrates is horrible because it's reds/oranges/yellows but the test tube is small round and shiny so it's really hard to compare the color on the paper with the solution in the tube. And for me, I think Nitrates and to a lesser extent Phospates is the only thing that currently concern me.
V
V
I think recently we have all realized nitrates and phosphates are more important than we used to realize. I'm just not sure how exact we really need to be.
Hanna even says "No errors with a digital readout" Well I guess there's no operator reading error, but there is certainly still error in the test.
Vincerama2
Guest
Well for me,a few years ago, my nitrate tests showed pure red. So I sent the water to a lab and they showed 220 ppm of nitrates! No small test could show how far off the scale it was. Now I'm reading colors between 25 and 50. Still trying to get them down closer to zero. (They dropped after I added a sulfur denitrator).
I was just thrilled my nitrates are in a readable range!
V
jccaclimber
Supporting Member
We should plumb our tanks together, I always seem to need to add nitrates to my systems, fresh and salt.
On topic these are now in stock at BRS, but for the trouble they seem to be I’ll stick with my Red Sea test.
Scott Sweet
Supporting Member
Question...why does it really matter?
