High Tide Aquatics

Hello - new member & reefer

lordlubu

lordlubu

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Hi Everyone,
My name is Thao, I'm a newbie that just started a 30 Gal. saltwater tank thanks to a friend who willing to sell me his completed set for a nice deal. Thanks to Him, I don’t have to do anything besides topping off water, therefore I'm somewhat clueless about saltwater's parameter. Like many here, I'm in love with freshwater fishes and plants. I have 5 Freshwater planted tank, (2) 55Gal and (3) 10Gal growing different fishes, shrimps, and plants. But ever since i set up the saltwater tank, I had been neglecting my plants. The Dark side had taken over :p I planned on breaking down a 10Gal and turning it into a quarantine tank. I'm hoping to learn as much as I can from everyone here.
 
lordlubu said:
I don’t have to do anything besides topping off water, therefore I'm somewhat clueless about saltwater's parameter.
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You should take the time to learn about parameters. You should go buy test kits for pH, ammonia, phosphates, nitrates, nitrites, and you should buy a hydrometer. It shouldn't be any more than $50 if you don't buy the super fancy test kits. I use the API test kits which work for me. You want the pH to be at 8.0-8.4, the salinity (measured with hydrometer) to be at 1.022-1.026, and the ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate should be at 0-0.5. If your pH is high, do a small water change (depending on how big the tank is) with RO/DI to bring it down. If the pH is too low, use Super Buffer DKH which boosts the pH to 8.2-8.4. I got all of my water testing supplies at All About Fish, so if you're near Pleasant Hill you can go there. If you aren't near there, I'm sure some of the other club members could recommend a good place to buy test kits. Goo luck.
 
Thao, welcome. Good luck.

Euphyllia said:
lordlubu said:
I don’t have to do anything besides topping off water, therefore I'm somewhat clueless about saltwater's parameter.
Click to expand...

You should take the time to learn about parameters. You should go buy test kits for pH, ammonia, phosphates, nitrates, nitrites, and you should buy a hydrometer. It shouldn't be any more than $50 if you don't buy the super fancy test kits. I use the API test kits which work for me. You want the pH to be at 8.0-8.4, the salinity (measured with hydrometer) to be at 1.022-1.026, and the ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate should be at 0-0.5. If your pH is high, do a small water change (depending on how big the tank is) with RO/DI to bring it down. If the pH is too low, use Super Buffer DKH which boosts the pH to 8.2-8.4. I got all of my water testing supplies at All About Fish, so if you're near Pleasant Hill you can go there. If you aren't near there, I'm sure some of the other club members could recommend a good place to buy test kits. Goo luck.
Click to expand...


I have a couple things to correct about Euphyllia's post.
First, good test kits are worth it. Invest in some good test kits that give you accurate readings. For kH yes API is fine. I personally like salifert for everything else but mag. Seachem is good for magnesium.
Second, get a refractometer (calibrate it) not a hydrometer. Hydrometers are very inaccurate.
Third, do not chase your pH numbers. As you know from planted tanks pH is directly related to kH and CO2 saturation. It is much better to have the right kH number than to have the "right" pH. During the winters people notice their pH dropping because of an increase CO2 saturation. This however does not mean you should add more carbonate (kH) in order to get the right pH levels.
 
iani said:
Invest in some good test kits that give you accurate readings. For kH yes API is fine. I personally like salifert for everything else but mag. Seachem is good for magnesium.
Second, get a refractometer (calibrate it) not a hydrometer. Hydrometers are very inaccurate.
Third, do not chase your pH numbers. As you know from planted tanks pH is directly related to kH and CO2 saturation. It is much better to have the right kH number than to have the "right" pH. During the winters people notice their pH dropping because of an increase CO2 saturation. This however does not mean you should add more carbonate (kH) in order to get the right pH levels.
Click to expand...
+1
 
I agree with iani and Mr. Ugly. welcome and good luck on this new adventure. I dont have much knowledge to offer, but its yours if you need it. ;)
 
Mr. Ugly said:
iani said:
Invest in some good test kits that give you accurate readings. For kH yes API is fine. I personally like salifert for everything else but mag. Seachem is good for magnesium.
Second, get a refractometer (calibrate it) not a hydrometer. Hydrometers are very inaccurate.
Third, do not chase your pH numbers. As you know from planted tanks pH is directly related to kH and CO2 saturation. It is much better to have the right kH number than to have the "right" pH. During the winters people notice their pH dropping because of an increase CO2 saturation. This however does not mean you should add more carbonate (kH) in order to get the right pH levels.
Click to expand...
+1
Click to expand...

+100
 
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