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Maureen's Classroom DSA 105

MolaMola said:
You are all so kind and supportive and I appreciate it. My schedule got all changed up this week so I need to go do some tank work today (happily, until I spill water everywhere heh heh). I will post current photos like @Alexander1312 suggested to document the positive changes to come. But first a fond memory for longtime BAR members from my old Weebly tank journal that was for startup fundraising purposes. Look at the origin of one of the corals I still have from near the beginning that has been through some tough tank times, fragged multiple times, shared with a few other schools around the country, and next time will go into DBTC unless it's already there:

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I'm sure @Vhuang168 would have loved to know that his coral is still being distributed in the hobby.
 
So here is the current state of my tanks. A couple weeks ago they were worse.

DSA 105 mixed reef:
Only one light has been working for quite awhile (I have good lights; connection issue), so everything on the left. A month ago corals were more bleached. Bioblocks just in to seed for another tank during spring break.
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Looking at a Hygger gyre for a 48"x24"x10" lowboy tank. Any suggestions on which model, since tank is so shallow? No return/sump but I do have strong regular powerheads that can provide additional flow.
 
I am big gyre fan, but do not know the gyres from this brand, but prices seem to be attractive. Looks like they have three models, 60 gallon, 135 gallon, 265 gallon.

Given that gyres lose strength over time until fully cleaned, I would recommend going with the middle model even though you only have 50 gallon. The other argument would be that the cheaper models flow speed are sometimes overstated, and running a more powerful device at lower speed is probably better than a lower powered device at a higher speed.

Only risk in my opinion is that these devices power settings are not well adjustable, meaning the lowest power settings could still be too strong.
 
Alexander1312 said:
I am big gyre fan, but do not know the gyres from this brand, but prices seem to be attractive. Looks like they have three models, 60 gallon, 135 gallon, 265 gallon.

Given that gyres lose strength over time until fully cleaned, I would recommend going with the middle model even though you only have 50 gallon. The other argument would be that the cheaper models flow speed are sometimes overstated, and running a more powerful device at lower speed is probably better than a lower powered device at a higher speed.

Only risk in my opinion is that these devices power settings are not well adjustable, meaning the lowest power settings could still be too strong.
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Thank you for that guidance. I am unfamiliar with gyres, so that directs me to what I would like to look into a bit.
 
If you order from Amazon if it doesn't work you can swap it.

I recommend on stronger than you need. You should look to only need to run it 40-60%.

No expert just me thoughts with wave makers in general. Makes them last longer less harsh wear than running one at max 24/7. It also give you room in the future to increase flow when corals grow out etc. Lastly running one a max means only future option is to add another one if more flow is needed.

For hyggers the price points between flow rates isn't a insane difference like the mp 10s, 40s, or 60s.

I would think middle option would be ideal. So hopefully the flow from it can hit the other side of the tank and curl back on it's self. I found 1 gyre was sufficient when I had my 50gallon low boy in addtion to the s1 return pump that had split returns.
 
Friday evening checked phosphates in soaking rock. Definitely there after one day. Amount unknown really bc I cannot distinguish between colors on API test card (students use them bc they are cheap; students' testing is unreliable bc there's a lot going on with a classful doing tank care jobs, so I just look for abrupt changes or trends). Maybe .5-1 ppm after one day. Of course, Hanna phosphate tester was at home to check along with other kits bc I am prepping to get back into caring for tanks properly. So I check source water which was combo from 3 tanks and 2 had phosphate, I am guessing from TDO pellets. Decided to wait to seed rock with water change bacteria and first get a read on phosphate leaching, so I dumped out water and replaced with clean SW. Also saw a lot of crusty bits in the bottom from the old rock despite lots of blasting with hose after the bleach soak, so now that's out of the bucket. Curious to see phosphate test on Monday.
 
Sometimes it make take a few water changes to get them to leaching completely. You've been at this longer than me so I expect this you already know. It's thing where patience up front can save headaches in the future.
 
MichaelB said:
Sometimes it make take a few water changes to get them to leaching completely. You've been at this longer than me so I expect this you already know. It's thing where patience up front can save headaches in the future.
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Good info. I have never done this before. But probably will be doing it again at some point, since I have quite a bit of very old yet cool rock.
 
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