Kessil

Power usage... what am I doing wrong?

Running a smaller duct would require you backing off on how much air it moves, otherwise it'll make more noise and put more wear on the fan motor.
 
I have a Vornado Clip-on fan blowing across the sump water. I added a plastic wall at the other side to block evaporated salt spray.
Also, for fully enclosed Canopy, i have 2 120MM fans, one one each side blowing in, and 2 matching open holes on top. 2 x 250W MH Lamps
This is at my office/warehouse, so I don't know the electrical costs.

Controller settings:

Vornado Sump Fan - On @ 77.8 / Off @ 77.2
Canopy Fan - On @ 77.5 / Off @ 77.0
2 x 300W heaters in Sump - On @ 76.5 / Off @ 77.0

photo-vi.jpg

temp-vi.jpg
 
Clip on isn't gonna cut it for my issue. My sump is already in the garage and it is plenty cool down there. No place to clip a fan on to my display as we are talking closed canopy and believe me 400W Mh's kick some heat.
 
+ 999 on Insulation.
There is no reason not to go completely crazy on insulation.

Regarding heat lost through evaporation:
I looked quick, and it seems to take 970 BTU/gallon, and a KWH is 3400 BTU
So each gallon evaporated = 2.4 KWH, or about $0.70
Multiply by how much you top-off.

But that said, if you are willing to go through so many hassles, including possibly solar,
you should reconsider a gas heater.
It is not that complicated. You set up a standard gas water heater ($400 or so), or connect to your house one.
You run a pex/pvc loop of water, with a temperature controlled pump, from that through your sump.
You can do the same with cold water as well, replacing the chiller.
Using gas is ridiculously cheaper.
 
Another option, I don't know how much it would actually save, so correct me if I'm wrong, is to use 220v for your lighting instead of 110v. I know a few people that grow tomatoes indoors and they all use 220v...
 
The garage may be cold, but like Trey said, I think evaporative cooling is more effective, which means blowing air across the water. I can let you borrow my Vornado to try it out, since it doesn't kick on all that much during the winter for me.
 
yellojello said:
The garage may be cold, but like Trey said, I think evaporative cooling is more effective, which means blowing air across the water. I can let you borrow my Vornado to try it out, since it doesn't kick on all that much during the winter for me.
Click to expand...

The problem is there is no where to put it to blow across the water.
 
I saw the photo of your sump setup in your journal. Possibly down into the left chamber of the sump, and the cool air will blow down around and out the other top where the skimmer is.
 
Hey Bryan, I might be in the area this weekend and I'd me willing to come by and look at the current system and give you my imput. Probably can come up with something on the cheap. Do you have a controller that logs?
 
Sounds good Jeff. Will be at the meeting on Sat but should be around after and/or Sunday. My controller is supposed to but it never seems to work very well. Don't get me started on my hatred of it.
 
i have no need for heater ,i set my controller to turn on halides when it's get 74F or colder and turn off when it got hotter then 80f.my halide only on for 4 hours daily.My corals got plenty of Lights and got more when it's cold.my bill still under $300.00.Good luck



lapsan
 
what controller you using B?

Give me a call when your heading to the meeting. I might be able to drop in on this one if I finish up what I need to do (probably not)
 
Bryan just wondering how high from the water line your reflectors (Lumenarc?) are; Do you think going with a shallower reflector like the Lumenmax Elite and setting 250W halides would help on the heath issue/power consumption by setting them closer to the water line?
I don't have a Lumenmax reflector for test purposes but if someone has one and maybe borrow a PAR meter to test vs the 400W.
 
tuberider said:
Another option, I don't know how much it would actually save, so correct me if I'm wrong, is to use 220v for your lighting instead of 110v. I know a few people that grow tomatoes indoors and they all use 220v...
Click to expand...
This should make no difference.
The key to 220v is that allows you to get the same power at half the current, so less issue with wiring and circuit breakers.
And it does make for a bit cheaper transformer at high power, also due to current/wire.
But efficiency is the same.
Well, I guess it can have subtle differences on power supplies, so perhaps some small difference depending on
how the ballast is built. Although any difference is more likely coincidence, in that 220v are more
professional/high end, and thus built better.

Note that 3-phase 220 is a different matter, and does make a difference, but nobody has that in their house.
 
220v often times are switchable 110/220v and are basically the same ballast, there's no difference between the two other than that, the 220v are not "professional".

I do know a friend of mine saved quite a bit of money switching over to 220v as well as Dan from PGS is a huge proponent of 220v, something to look into if you ask me.
 
same wire with 220 will have half the resistive voltage drop. Thats about the only practical way you will save power (heat the wires less)
 
I've heard it's more efficient as well, and know people who do the same, but can't exactly explain it myself. Speaking of that...Bryan, have you considered going hydro style with glass bottom on your reflectors and staight up air cool them? Not sure if Gresh was suggesting using that fan for that, but it works well, and would pull more heat out than just pulling heat from the canopy. I've heard him say to be carefull because if you cool the reflectors too much it can effect bulb color...
 
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