got ethical husbandry?

Rygh's 250 gallon - rev.2

The Lumia 5.2s were interesting idea I had as well a while back, although at the time there were no optics for it (even now I think they just have a generic lens system for the whole thing), but my biggest worry would be the thermal management of something like that where all 25 of those LEDs are is a hair over the size of a standard "star" that has a single LED on it, even with a beefy heatsink there has to be issues with that. RapidLED even had a massive LED puck at one time that has been pulled probably for similar reasons (or it's just too big to be useful)
 
There was a video that I saw that had a thermal camera taking readings off of them. I remember thinking it was cool but I didn't know what temperatures LEDs can run at for sustained periods so it didn't mean a whole lot to me. Kessils do pretty much the same thing though so I don't think it's something not achievable.
 
The Lumia 5.2s were interesting idea I had as well a while back, although at the time there were no optics for it (even now I think they just have a generic lens system for the whole thing), but my biggest worry would be the thermal management of something like that where all 25 of those LEDs are is a hair over the size of a standard "star" that has a single LED on it, even with a beefy heatsink there has to be issues with that. RapidLED even had a massive LED puck at one time that has been pulled probably for similar reasons (or it's just too big to be useful)

Looks like I have some calculating to do, yes.
Whites are about 40% efficient, RB about 50%, not sure on other colors. Lets assume pessimistic 40% overall.
So 60% of the power is heat to dissipate.
I was going to use 100mA/500mA, not 1500/700, so power is 60W * .6 = 36W of heat to deal with
Quite a bit, but far easier than something like a CPU.

Key will be some thickness to the main heat sink.
With all those LEDs so close, you have to pull the heat away vertically as it spreads to the fins.
And very key will be good quality thermal paste.

That "Makers" heat sink they advertise using with it does seem a bit thin.

This is what I uses on my previous build. I bet it would still work, but I will double check.
IMG_0913.JPG

Heat sink profile.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2...97__53467__55489.1354128657.1280.1280.jpg?c=2
 
There was a video that I saw that had a thermal camera taking readings off of them. I remember thinking it was cool but I didn't know what temperatures LEDs can run at for sustained periods so it didn't mean a whole lot to me. Kessils do pretty much the same thing though so I don't think it's something not achievable.
LEDs can run very hot before "dying." 125 C is usually the rated max, which is 257 degrees F.
But it shortens the lifespan dramatically.
You really want to run them below 45C = 113F
 
Yeah never was a fan of the Maker heatsink. While yes convenient as all heck, there is so much of the copperboard with zero contact with the heatsink, it is a bit less of an issue with the stars but for bigger arrays? no way you could get me to use that heatsink
 
Could you in fact use a heatsink for a cpu?

I thought this would be an interesting idea if the size matched up. Have the LED at one end then a couple inches of heat sink with a fan at the other.
image.jpeg
 
Yeah never was a fan of the Maker heatsink. While yes convenient as all heck, there is so much of the copperboard with zero contact with the heatsink, it is a bit less of an issue with the stars but for bigger arrays? no way you could get me to use that heatsink
Along with being rather overpriced
$4.15 per inch is crazy.
 
Could you in fact use a heatsink for a cpu?

I thought this would be an interesting idea if the size matched up. Have the LED at one end then a couple inches of heat sink with a fan at the other. View attachment 4982
It would certainly work. Even the cheap CPU heat sinks usually handle 80W or so, so 36 should be fine.
Might be a bit tricky to mount though.
Getting good contact between LED and heat sink is very critical. Although silver thermal epoxy works well.
Then you need to mount that to some sort of fixture.
 
Crazy thought on heat sink:
Water cooled:
- If tank is cold, coolant runs through closed loop into tank.
- If tank is hot, coolant runs outside to a regular heat sink.
It is upwards of 150W or so when on.

Way too complicated to be practical though.
 
So the good news : Lights are fixed.
:)

I poked around on Sunday, and it was just some corroded connectors, not a dead driver problem.
Even though there is an acrylic shield, I am getting some salt creep.

So the pressure is off.
I still have 2 dead LEDs, but no big deal there.

That said, new lights were always in the back of my mind. So I may continue this thread.
And I did make a bunch of new drawings last night.
 
Some ideas from yesterday.

Use 4 x Lumia + 14 x Custom cluster. Good spread.
Lumia4_14Cl.jpg

This is a fun one: Use 6 x Lumia + 2 x 39W T5 to fill shadows and enhance spectrum.
Lumia6_2T5.jpg

Simple 8 x Lumia. Easiest to build.
Lumia8.jpg
 
The hybrid is still intriguing me.
Replacing my current LED with an LED with better spectrum is a plus,
but not really worth the time and money.

But going back to T5... Hmm.
I still remember my old hybrid and how nice it was, even though the LEDs were pretty antique.

I have some old ballasts and bulbs.
Perhaps I will get one of the Lumia LEDs, and see what it looks like.
If nothing else, it would be a fun improvement to my sump.

I think it needs both sides being T5 though.
So 360W of LED, and 160W of T5.
Although pretty overkill on the power.

Like this:
l6_4t5.jpg
 
Found a wayward Zebra Dartfish in my fuge today.
:rolleyes:

Made it through the overflows, which surprised me, since I have covers/slots that are pretty tight.
Made it through the pipes. About 10 feet, into the garage.
Went through the sump skimmer section, and over that weir / overflow as well, and into the fuge.
I moved it back to main tank. Seems healthy and happy.
 
Getting really tired of Majanos....
:mad:

I had reduced feeding a bit, and they were under control.
Meaning, I could keep up killing the ones actively hurting my corals.

But the fish started getting a bit skinny, and my NPS sun coral was doing very poorly.
So I increased feeding back up, and they are now out of control again.
They seem tougher now also. Winning against green Zoas that used to not be an issue.
And I even have them growing up through the (very thin) sand bed.

I have tried so many things....
Joe's Juice seems most effective.
Majano wand - gratifying but useless.
Alk paste - works, about the same as Joe's juice.
Manual - just shreds them.
Bicolor Angel - nope.
Super low Nitrates - helps, but corals were unhappy.

About the only thing that seems to really work - Cover the rock with tough softy corals.
Coral like GSP seems to laugh at Majanos, as it quietly smothers them.

Just venting a bit...

Maybe time to get a Racoon Butterfly...
Err, no..
 
Not sure not sure if you can make to my event 7-23-16, but if you do you can see some gyre pumps I'm running with some jabeo's. Plenty of flow and evenly disbursed. I didn't know you had a clash, but I'm glad your not giving up.

Dick Flanagan
 
Not sure not sure if you can make to my event 7-23-16, but if you do you can see some gyre pumps I'm running with some jabeo's. Plenty of flow and evenly disbursed. I didn't know you had a clash, but I'm glad your not giving up.

Dick Flanagan

I tried an early Gyre. Liked the flow, but not the noise. Sold it. I hear they are improved though.
I use dual Jabao return pumps. Great, but I would not trust just one.

No big tank crash, just some bad luck here and there. And endless Majanos....
Probably all related. Once things get out of whack, hard to get it right again.
My auto-water-exchange has helped a lot though.
But my lights .... argh.

I definitely hope to show up. Always fun to talk. Should know by this weekend.
 
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