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Tank Journal : Converting Fresh water to a Saltwater Tank

That could have been attributed to the fact that nitrobacter (bacteria that converts nitrite to nitrate) requires 13-20 hours to double in count vs nitrosomonas (bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrite) every 7 hours.


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Eh, I used dr Tim’s and noticed the stall 6-7 days after I first noticed ammonia. Did a wc when it stalled, then added another bottle. I’m about 90% sure it stalled because of high nitrite
 
Fish Boss said:
Eh, I used dr Tim’s and noticed the stall 6-7 days after I first noticed ammonia. Did a wc when it stalled, then added another bottle. I’m about 90% sure it stalled because of high nitrite
Click to expand...

In theory, until there were sufficient nitrites to feed them, the nitrobacter wouldn't have started showing up in significant numbers to convert nitrites to nitrates until a a couple days after the ammonia was converted to nitrites. And because their doubling rate is slower than the nitrosomonas, it may have appeared to you that the process was stalled.
 
I always used biospira and never used Dr Tim's never notice the issue with cycling it went by quick.


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Good Morning!

On day 12 of the Cycle. The graph looks kinda funky with the Nitrates hitting the 160 mark.

upload_2018-3-12_9-47-0.png


Did a water change on Day 10 - about 40%.
Ammonia is very close to 0, but I would just put .25 since it has a slight green.
Nitrites seem to be sitting at 5.0, but the color from 2.0 to 5.0 ppm seems so similar to me.
Nitrates dropped to 40 ppm after water change, but is back up to 160 today.

I was reading that nitrites can drop to 0 overnight, so I guess I should wait it out and see what happens :).
 
I think you are getting close to the end. I’m not sure if nitrates can stall the cycle, but once amm and nitrite are zero, dose 2 ppm amm, and if you have 0 amm and 0 nitrite after 24 hours you should be good to go! I’m not sure what everyone else’s opinion would be on this, but I would probably do a 100% water change once you are done cycling, to pull out all of those nitrates
 
I personally would not use that water. Wouldn't want to start a new system with nitrates. Agree with 100% water change.

Nitrates Nitrites can (and will likely) disappear in a night. Like @Fish Boss said, a well established cycle can make 2ppm ammonia convert to nitrates in 24 hours. I have seen it happen in less than 18 hours before after testing a batch of cured/cycle rocks.
 
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Thanks!

I'll wait for nitrite and ammonia to drop to 0, then add 2 ppm ammonia and and see if it drops to zero the next day. After that it's 100% water change and fishy time :).
 
I’ve never done 100% water changes after a cycle. Not that it’s not a good idea, but I hate water changes. I’d get to a manageable level (between 10-20) by only doing about a 40% wc. Then the fuge gets started and finishes off the rest.
 
Flagg37 said:
I’ve never done 100% water changes after a cycle. Not that it’s not a good idea, but I hate water changes. I’d get to a manageable level (between 10-20) by only doing about a 40% wc. Then the fuge gets started and finishes off the rest.
Click to expand...

I always cycle my rock in a bin in the garage. Then I just move the rock to the DT with new water. So not exactly a water change, but I def don't use the water from the bin.
 
Short Update:
  • Added Bio-Spira on 3/14.
  • 30% water change on 3/17
Reading from 3/18
  • Ammonia 0
  • Nitrites 5 ppm
  • Nitrates 40 ppm
Going to try to do more water changes to bring the nitrites level down.
 
Hey Coral,

Maybe I'm reading too much and being a little impatient, but I'm a little worried that the cycle is stalled. I'm not sure the exact terms, but it was mentioned that if Nitrites are above 5 ppm it may start eating the the good bacteria and causing a stall. I was hoping the water change would bring the nitrites back down. Nitrite has been over 5 ppm since day 6 which is 12 days ago, in which I've done two partial water changes.

thanks!
 
It’s taken my tanks right around 28 days to cycle even with bacteria added. I couldn’t say conclusively either way if a wc will be beneficial or not.
 
Just a quick update. Seems like everything is good. :)

  • Levels Nitrites and Ammonia are undetectable after a few days with fishes swimming around.
  • Carbon and Phosguard reactor is up and running through BRS reactor
  • UV sterilzer is plumbed, but will probably turn it on at a later date.
  • Protein Skimmer is up and running - picked it up from clear water aquairums .. Thanks :)
  • SKIMS MBR 157 Algae Reactor is coming soon.
  • Still thinking of a lighting solution, but that would be the last step.
On the graph, changed 80 ppm to 40.2 and 160 ppm to 40.3, else the graph wouldn't be readable.
upload_2018-3-23_14-8-58.png


Log:
Day 1: Added Dr. Tim's Bacteria with Ammonia

Day 5: 50% water change. Realized I added too much Ammonia, almost 6x the the recommended amount.

Day 10: 40% water change. Nitrite still at 5ppm and Nitrate still high. Worrid about Bacteria, so added Bio Spira.

Day 18: 30% water change to Nitrites/Nitrates.

Day 19: 90% water change. Wanted to clear the water column of Nitrites and Nitrates. Added 5 blue/green chromis, 10 hermit crabs, 2 emerald crabs. Turned on Reactor with Carbon and Phosguard.

Day 21: Added 1 Flame Angel, 2x Darwin Clownfish. Turned on Protein Skimmer.
 
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Hey guys,

Looking for some advice on lighting since this would probably be the most expensive piece of equipment in my setup.
Currently I have an aquatic life edge (non reef version) from my fresh water setup.
https://www.aquaticlife.com/light-fixtures-accessories/aquatic-life-edge-led-light-fixture.html

Requirements.
  • coverage 48x22x22
  • no hanging fixtures from the ceiling
  • lights not so high above the tank water line.
  • budget - would like to stay under $1000 or around that ball park

Kessil AP700
  • This was my first choice, but thinking that I would need to get 2x, and that would probably be out of my budget.
  • Manufacturer says it can cover 48" spread but the light has to be 18" on top of the water.
  • 2X would be ideal, but the cost would be around $1600 + additional mounting arms.
Kessil A360WE Tuna Blue
  • These would be pretty good, but not sure if 2x would cover a 48" tank.
  • Cost of 2x A360 with 2x mounting Arms and controller would be under 1K.
  • If the two lights can cover 48" tank, this might be good.
RAZOR X R5 200W LED FIXTURE
  • Cost is about $599, the most inexpensive of the choices.
  • effective coverage is 48X22" which is the size of my tank.
  • problem in the details: "The Maxspect Razor X 200w is perfect for any reef tank up to 40" long". Even though the coverage is good, it might not fight the tank with the stand that comes with it. I'm guessing the coverage is based on if you hung it higher.
  • The Razor 300W (bigger version) is $899 and should cover my tank.
  • Cons: Not sure, but some reviews states that it has red/green LED which they don't use.
If conclusion, I'm thinking the 2x A360WE. The good thing is that I have about a month to think about it as my tank and other equipment is settling in.

thanks!
 
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