Tank Parameters all over the place

It's down @derek_SR explained it to me. Lanthanum is better when slowly dispersed over multiple doses. Say you using 2 mil.

Better to do many small doses of it than all at once.

A doser ensures it's dosed precisely daily at x time and without fail. Your saying your numbers have slightly increased. Only trying to offer suggestions. Both Lanthanum and gfo work I seriously don't think anyone would argue that point.

By saying you have the tools meaning you already have what's needed to lower po4 in addtion to water changes.

I'm soley speaking about efficiency using one or both in the most efficient way.

I was dosing stuff in my tank for years by hand. Until I screwed around and hooked up a single head doser lmao I feel pretty silly in hindsight for not using them when I've had dosers just sitting in the garage.


That's a article about it. Not specifically doser related but revelant to subject matter.

This article is however very relevant including some cautions.

https://www.bareefers.org/forum/threads/guide-lanthanum-chloride-dosing-for-phosphate-control.36708/


*Dosing pump allows you to get tbe lanthanum directly at the sweet spot in skimmer. Also what derek mentioned about diluting it makes it less risky.

I gave away all my extra dosers or I would definitely have gave you one if you don't already have one. One time I had 3/4 sitting around.


More than anything I'm basically speaking about using your tools efficiently. As I've stated several times. I think it would make a real difference in your situation. Your able to test things now so your no longer guessing. If used efficent and there is no effect than you can slightly increase the dose. Yet just getting more efficient with what your already doing maybe enough by itself to see the numbers actually start to trend downwards.
 
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spuri87 said:
oh yeah..

I pick 3 of these randomly every day and mix them together:
  • Mix of 1 frozen cube (brine or mysis shrimp)
  • pinch of flakes
  • pinch of TDO pellets
  • pinch of dried worms
  • pinch of dried mysis
above is soaked in Selcon or Vitachem (alternate day).. I feed them 1.5 times (alternating between 1 and 2 feedings per day) and 1 Nori sheet for the tangs every day
Click to expand...

Maybe get a small measuring spoon or like a medicine cup. Not saying weigh things. But use a line with a sharpie so you feeding the roughly the same amount. Also best to feed same number of times a day. This is just so when your testing one day verse next day and see differences it's not because yesterday I feed slightly more food than I did today etc.

For.tdo pellets I use the cap on the tdo pouch to measure as example verse just pouring in to my hand.

Frozen I feed 1 cube split between 2 tanks. 1

1.cube frozen for fish in qt, one quarter size portion of krill for puffer. And 1 sheet of nori for fish in qt.

Mostly I feed frozen. If I do tdo it's a lazy day or I'm busy. I never feed flakes I had major Po4 issues using them in my smaller tanks in the beginning. I've also never tried freeze dried food or any type of auto feeder.

Not implying my way is correct and your wrong at all. It would be more helpful taking a few extra seconds to measure things.


your adding enhancements to food have a scop dropper or something just so what your doing is mostly the same ratios day to day.

If your testing what your feeding won't be a random variable.
 
spuri87 said:
oh yeah..

I pick 3 of these randomly every day and mix them together:
  • Mix of 1 frozen cube (brine or mysis shrimp)
  • pinch of flakes
  • pinch of TDO pellets
  • pinch of dried worms
  • pinch of dried mysis
above is soaked in Selcon or Vitachem (alternate day).. I feed them 1.5 times (alternating between 1 and 2 feedings per day) and 1 Nori sheet for the tangs every day
Click to expand...

I doubt that this causes your massive phosphates. And since the sand is somewhat excluded too, it must be the rocks.

Your choice is to perfect your LC game or replace the rocks. Seems like an obvious choice but I would probably still go with the rocks, since who knows what else will come after you fix the phosphate issues.
 
I guess $5 a pound and 160 pounds… Still pretty crazy.

These things take time don’t give up so quick

Also mentioned this privately but wanted to share. Increasing light intensity, photoperiod, and tank temps do decrease nutrients. As does iron dosing. But these cause growth of algae, plus you need to keep an eye on your inhabitants to made sure everyone is still happy
 
tribbitt said:
I guess $5 a pound and 160 pounds… Still pretty crazy.

These things take time don’t give up so quick

Also mentioned this privately but wanted to share. Increasing light intensity, photoperiod, and tank temps do decrease nutrients. As does iron dosing. But these cause growth of algae, plus you need to keep an eye on your inhabitants to made sure everyone is still happy
Click to expand...

Increasing light and adding iron at these phosphate levels will make algae growth explode. In a 200g tank, this is recipe for even more issues than there are currently in my opinion.
 
Alexander1312 said:
Increasing light and adding iron at these phosphate levels will make algae growth explode. In a 200g tank, this is recipe for even more issues than there are currently in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Maybe do everything at once here… I agree too may things toward algae growth. But wanted to mention in the post as a possible way. I talked with Sameer in dm about this

He has a lot of tangs, so slightly turning up one of these dials like slightly increase par or photoperiod could increase algae growth still within the amount his tangs can consume
 
Ok I can’t recall the size of the tank -either 200 or 287?

But this website can help -
larryl.emailplus.org.user.fm/fish/dosing-instructions-phosphate-removers.html


So for arguments sake you have a 200 gal tank and you want to bring down po4 from 1.8 to .5 as a first stage of undiluted lanth-
Per website using tropic Marin elim-np -you need 98 ml. Then divide that by 10 to slowly bring po4 -it comes out to 9.8 ml a day -so the current 2 isn’t going to make much of a dent..

Maintenance mode would probably be closer to 3ish ml a day.

2nd stage would be diluted..

I just took two dosing heads offline so I have a Red Sea doser you can borrow for a bit -
Or an apex dos if you have/can get an Apex brain. Up in Oakland. There may be others by you with a spare doser if you put on the forum as a loaner.

LC can be great -but can cause issues if not properly used..first time per ICP tests it had jumped to 11 ppm. It caused no visible issues with animals but it can also stick to pumps so I stopped it.

2nd time around -per ICP test -lanth is currently 0. Difference is that I am feeding it through lid 2nd time.

But at that amount per day 9.8) -a doser would help break up the amount into prob 10-18 doses a day depending on certain factors..

If you do go the doser route with 2 heads -then alternative js carbon dosing (like 30-40% of max dose) which will bring down nitrates as well. PO4 will stall -but then kick in LC -but you may need a much lower dose of lanth -

For example I use 1 ml of TM’s bacto balance, and then currently 10 ml of 50:1 diluted lanthanum.,
 
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