Jestersix

32G ADA

Wet testing, I noticed that there was water in the drybox. I thought I had made a mistake and filled it up by accident (was rather late when I did the testing). Made no note of it until the tank was moved indoors and the move was complete. By then, I noticed that the drybox was wet again, but it wasn't at the same water height as the overflow water level. There's actually a notch in the drybox that was for a cord to sneak through, but after looking at it, it wasn't the source of the issue.

As it turns out, the drybox wasn't water tight. I drained the overflow compartment this last week and smeared some weld-on #16 on all the seams to the drybox and that sealed the leak.

Anyways, onto other equipment...

Stand light:
Stand looked great on the outside, but terribly dark inside; the entire stand is painted a semi-gloss black, including the inside. Off to the hardware store to find some sort of light to go inside the stand. Things have definitely changed since the last time I went to look for a stand light. I couldn't find a 12" or so T5 light that I had used when I still had my 90G freshwater setup. :(

LEDs are definitely more in than I thought. While perusing through the lighting aisle at OSH, I stumbled across a three pack of these:
stand_lights.jpg


No wires, runs off 3 AAA batteries, and secured via double sided tape. I have plenty of AAA eneloops, so I figured I'd give them a shot. I tested them at home and the light didn't really have the spread that I really wanted, but 3 of them ought to do the job. One was doubled sided taped in the stand and actually provided sufficient lighting to see underneath. The other two were to go in the next day when I could look for them (another late night session working on the tank).

As it turns out, the double sided tape didn't work as well as advertised. Found it the following day in the sump shorted out. Back to OSH I went looking for another alternative. Didn't take long and I came upon some under-the-cabinet pucks. These also came in a set of 3, but instead were using 20W halogen bulbs, wired, and secured via 3 screws. As it turns out, I should have gone with these initially. I fired one up and other than the extremely yellow coloration, these suckers were bright! One of the three pucks is set on the timer (DC8) to go on one hour after the T5s shut down to light the chaeto that I have down in the refugium. The other two are hooked into a switch that allows me to turn them on any time that I need to work underneath the stand.
 
Does the dry box serve other purpose or to just conceal the Vortech. Cool concept of hiding the equipment. Did you get the leak fixed?
 
The dry side of the vortech can't touch water and it's sole purpose is to do that.

Yeah, I got the leak fixed a few days ago. I used some weld-on #16 on all the seams and it's dry as a bone now.
 
Do you still have that worm? I know some one that would love to get it to ID it properly.
 
Unfortunately I don't. I had it in a deli container with some water and the front end perished after about 2 days.

Very unusual worm to say the least. I've never seen anything produce phosphorescent colors before. The green is totally different from anything I've seen before and seeing the bristles go from white to the green flashing was awesome.
 
Yup, directly from the link that Gresh posted above.

I've held onto those bottles for awhile now. About time that I put them to use. :D
 
Picked up this pair from Blue Ocean about a week ago.

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There's a RBTA in the tank, but they've shown no interest in it at all. They're actually hosting the overflow. :~
 
Well, finally was able to pull some PAR readings thanks to someone! :D

The numbers are pretty sad looking though...
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I'm kind of surprised though, considering how much faster some of the corals have been growing.

After seeing that, I decided to get a new fixture, which should get here in ~2 weeks.
 
For reference- those PAR readings are really low compared to readings in my tank and other tanks. I get around 100-180 at the bottom. Although when I checked the LPS tank at Rommel (ultimatefrags), his was at lower than yours. Proof is in the pudding though, if corals are doing well that's more important than a PAR #.
 
Swapped out the light for the Maxspect 160W G2 unit a short while back. I'll post a review on it later.

Nothing else to update really. Took some pics of the fish in the tank.

Red spot cards from Karson back in February.
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All nice and fat now.
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Fat tuka (otohime fed).
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I'll post a pic of the dispar anthias and the x'mas island flame later today.
 
Dispar anthias from back in Feb. 4.
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Grown out and fat, as of today.
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Here's the x'mas island flame angel from Neptune. Had the most orange and yellow out of the group and the stripes are a bit more symmetrical than the others that were from the same shipment. There's actually a posting on ReefBuilders in regards to the differences in coloration between this variant versus the Hawaiian.
xmas%20flame%20041110.jpg
 
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