Neptune Aquatics

August BAR meeting - Quarantine for Reef Systems - Aug. 12

Corals mostly, but why not some fish?

OK, so now I know I NEED to go to the meeting so that I can learn what size is appropriate! ;)

I was just thinking back to the clam meeting where (clam guy) said quarantining was easy, you just needed a 10g tank. Selective memory?

I won't say anything until after the meeting!

V
 
Vincerama2 said:
OK, so now I know I NEED to go to the meeting so that I can learn what size is appropriate! ;)
There you go Vince :)

We only post stickies about it in 2 forums and plaster it all over our home page. Yes, you need to go to the meeting :) Just don't call Frank "quarantine guy", hahahah. Or "No corals for you!" :)
 
Matt from Reefready.net is donating the following cool frags for the raffle at tomorrow meeting:

Hot Tamale Chalace
Reefready.net blue zoos
Tyree branching alien eye
Purple tongan mushroom
Cyphastrea Japonica
 
Mr. Ugly said:
And I suspect Reef Nutrition will be spoiling us with nice things as has been their usual bad habit :D

Oh Yeah... He just drops off a box loaded with good stuff. I will bring it with me to the meeting..
xyxthumbshr7.gif
Reef Nutrition ... Thank You for your support 8) :wink:
 
When I got home, I set up a quarantine tank to put my raffle-won Tongan purple mushroom (and "brown star polyps" and "pink birds nest") into!

Actually, I already had a 10g quarantine tank, but it was covered with algae, so I took my spare 10g (since the club didn't want it for the raffle!!) and set it up that day, so it was basically like setting up a new qt tank. It didn't take long at all, the longest part was making water-change water for the main tank so I could nab 10g of ripe water for the qt. If you have the tank, heater and HOB filter and can make salt water quickly, setting up the qt is quick, so there is no excuses!

It's now up and running (10g tank with ripe water in it, 3 frags, a HOB running carbon, an AquaC remora and a 70W MH)... I didn't have any dip chems on hand, but will order some online (I popped over to Atlantis after the meeting and didn't see any, but didn't want to bug them either since they were still dealing with a wet carpet!)

Bottom line is that aside from making salt water, you can get the tank up and running fast if you have the equipment sitting around.

Good meeting! I just wanted to post to say that I actually applied most of the principles taught there on coral frags that I swapped/won there! Soo...for all the people that don't show up ... you should go!

V
 
I agree with Vince.

That was a great meeting... with great information and a great raffle! I got some cool frags in trade and I even got to try Nicholas' segway!

Thanks to all who brought it together and to nicholas for the ride. ;-)

-C
 
Cool Vince, unfortunately the only one I applied was "Dip as a Minimum" since I didn't have any of the medications listed, and I was setting up the QT for the Steinhart locations and I didn't want to cross containminate *MY* stuff :D

One thing I forgot to ask, is all those chems aren't needed if don't have those particular corals, ie if you don't have acropora corals you got at a swap/etc would you skip the interceptor & Fluke tab treatment?

Btw did anyone happen to recall what the drugs o' choice were, I recall the interceptor, fluke tabs, but don't recall what treatments for other things (zoa spiders/nudi/snails, monti nudis) ... should have taken notes... or preordered his book :)
 
sfsuphysics said:
One thing I forgot to ask, is all those chems aren't needed if don't have those particular corals

Don't they teach grammar at SFSU? :)

I think "Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure" was the "Kill all". Some Sea Chem product was the "Stop RTN" stuff. was it Sea Chem Reef Dip? I have it written down at home.


Oh, also the BIGGEST piece of info from the meeting, which I will now pass on, is "Joe's Juice is Kalwasser with non-iodized salt". Shocker! I actually bought Joe's Juice to see if it worked better than kalkwasser (it worked about the same, with the same aiptasia retraction that kalkwasser gets). What a rip off! Well, "Joe" got my $8. At least I got the handy applicator that comes with it. grumble, grumble....

V
 
TMPCC is pretty much a kill all, but will not harm any eggs that are laid.

SeaChem Reef Dip (iodine-based -- okay most of these dips are iodine based) will work well on STN. It will work on RTN; however it does depend on how "rapid" the necrosis is i.e. if the flesh is peeling off it isn't going to work. It seemed to be if it was non-fraggable then it was not going to work.

I am trying Betadine as a dip solution as it seems not to stress the sps out as much, before going into quarentine (setting it up tonight - had to retrieve a 20g tank from work).

You would not need interceptor or fluke tabs if you don't have sps.

There are "some" (word used rather loosely) corals that you can do a freshwater dip (sps would not be one of those).

Joe's Juice aka Kalk - you can also increase the palability by mixing in mysis or brine in with the solution so the aipstasia will take it in more readily.
 
Yah, kalk slurry for aiptasias. Might as well mix in some fish food.

You can freshwater/iodine dip zoanthids to treat for nudibranchs. The fw makes the nudis swell and burst. Nowadays, I just use double strength iodine with sw for zoas and pretty much anything else I want to dip. The fw dip for zoas seems more stressful to them. You only do it for 5 minutes, and they take a long time to reopen. With sw/iodine, you can go for 20 minutes easily, and the zoas open a lot sooner. You don't get a kill on the nudis though, but they are so stunned, that it's easily to make them fall off your zoas. Make sure to look for egg spirals too.

I think Frank said that iodine dip isn't too good for montis, but I"ve had no prob using 2x iodine in sw for montis. No prob with that for any SPS, for that matter.

I've even accidently left a monti in a 2x iodine/sw dip for a couple hours without problem.

Another trick I've seen for monti nudis and eggs is to just blob some IC gel on them. Pretty stress free approach for the monti :)
 
Also, if you do want to fw dip your zoas, make sure to add iodine. Otherwise any decay gets worse as the bacteria spread, and you can accelerate your zoas demise.

More zoa talk... if you have sick/melting zoas... sometimes you have decaying sponge underneath or inside the rock. I like to frag stuff apart and do a lot of clean up. Also keeping the frags apart in the tank(s) increases the chances for some part to survive.

One that I don't remember hearing this weekend was about zoa fungus. FW/peroxide is supposed to be good for that. Don't have the specifics handy, but you can google it easily enough.
 
Vincerama2 said:
sfsuphysics said:
One thing I forgot to ask, is all those chems aren't needed if don't have those particular corals

Don't they teach grammar at SFSU? :)
*shrug* Maybe, I never did learn me no english at SFSU though :) I transfered there as after my undergrad :)

But what I was getting at was his list of things to do for the QT period. Day 1 interceptor, day 2 & 9 fluke tabs, something for planera was in there I think? I don't remember if there was a monti-nudi meds you'd toss in the QT with that.
 
TMPCC should be fine. I use tincture of iodine which has alcohol and none of the slime protecting additives. 40+ drops per liter or 10+ drops per 8oz for double strength dip. Never had a prob.

See the Tyree article:

http://www.reeffarmers.com/acclimation.htm
 
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