Cali Kid Corals

Crawl space drain

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Gablami

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Hi guys and gals,

As I've posted before I'm setting up for continuous water change with dos, about 1.5 gallons per day. I'm planning on draining into my existing pipe under the house. If I really wanted to, I could run the tube all the way to the front of the house structure where I have a clean out access to the main drain before it runs through the front yard to the sidewalk.

But much closer I have some large diameter pipe that I was planning on draining into:

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It seems to be the end of a central large diameter tube that has many smaller tubes running into it, from the bathrooms and kitchens etc.

Originally I was planning on installing a 1.5 inch P trap, either adapting it to the end of this big tube, or finding a smaller tube further, and adding in a T connector.

But I could also just drill a 1/4" hole at the top of the tube and stick my draining tubing in and be done with it. It's a pretty tight fit and I don't think I'll have a lot of smells coming into the crawl space.

My only concern is what if one day there is a sewage blockage somewhere. Will this affect anything? Guess I wanted to bounce these ideas around here before I start working.


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Last edited:
Never thought about ur question.

I'd think sewage blockage back into ur tank is a risk. Is the sw drain line pressurized full time?

Will a check valve work?

Or somehow raise the sw drain line so its highest point is above the closest kitchen sink? Probably not possible in crawspace.
 
Awesome. As usual there is something made for this :). I'll find a 1.5 inch drain and attach this to it.

Julius, it's not an open drain into my tank, and it's a 1/4 diameter tubing very much like rodi tubing, and it is driven by a peristaltic pump so it should be squeezed shut. Shouldn't drain into my sump in a overflow situation.


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As long as there is an air gap, which there should be if you setup the saddle T at the top of the sewer pipe, I would agree that there should be minimal risk. I love the approach.
 
Without the p-trap you're going to get stinky gases coming up into your house through the fish tank drain.


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Could you install a reducer where the cap is? If so, an ABS P trap will prevent the stink. You could cap the trap and add a push connect fitting to it
 
Ok just to be safe, maybe I'll attach the push connect saddle valve to a p-trap. I already bought it anyways. Just need to attach a t.

Unless the saddle valve is really tight. I can even seal it with some glue if needed. It won't come back through the dos tubing. Just don't want the crawl space to get stinky.


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If you are using a peristaltic pump, directly to the sewer drain, then that saddle valve should work perfectly.
Fumes cannot get back through the pump.
Plenty of pressure for slight sewer blockages.
If your sewer gets hopelessly backed up, you have bigger problems... :eek:

But if this is to some sort of gravity drain, you need a trap.
 
Not sure how the quick connect is sealed against pipe inside the saddle valve. It needs to handle water pressure with no leak.

There is 1/4 rodi quick connect on one end and threaded male on the other end say 3/4" size. U can use couple of transition connectors, or tap a female thread in that big black drain pipe.
 
Julius Chen said:
Not sure how the quick connect is sealed against pipe inside the saddle valve. It needs to handle water pressure with no leak.

There is 1/4 rodi quick connect on one end and threaded male on the other end say 3/4" size. U can use couple of transition connectors, or tap a female thread in that big black drain pipe.
Click to expand...
Received same day. Love amazon. There is nothing that enters the pipe after it is drilled, but looks like I can screw it on tight and there is a sticky spongy thing that helps keep it water tight.

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I'll put in a capped P trap and attach this valve to the end. Will probably do it tomorrow and will post pics.


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I would prefer that too. But I think this will still serve its purpose. If I have sewage draining into my crawl space, you guys will be the first to know!


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Julius Chen said:
I prefer being able to thread the quick connect into the drain pipe.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure why you would prefer a threaded connection. This is the correct application for this fitting. It's not like this is a second rate solution to an abnormal problem. It's a drain line so it doesn't have the water pressure that you mentioned before. Even if it did, though, saddle valves are made for pressurized applications too. I hope I'm not coming across too strong, I just think this is a perfectly fine solution and far easier than other solutions.
 
A picture of the inside view of the saddle will help. I never knew about this saddle valve, so it might just be fear of unknown on my part.

I assumed the way it works is to drill hole of 1/4" in diameter in the drain pipe, before pressing this saddle value with the quick connect and the newly drilled hole aligned? Normal pressure of drain fluid should be OK, but if there is blockage there will the pressure from drain pump cause leak?
 
Road block, went down into crawl space thinking I would find something 1.5 in diameter, but everything is 2.5 in. I'm looking online but I can't find a plastic saddle valve to fit that larger diameter. I'm going to try drilling a hole, tapping with NPT thread, and screwing in a male NPT 1/4 push connect. Bad idea?


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Thickness of drain pipe may be thinner than schedule 40 pvc pipe of same diameter. I'd look for the thickest place to drill, maybe the head of the plug?

Or are u able to find multiple transition connectors to replace the plug at the end if the pipe?


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+1 on replacing that plug at the end of the pipe with an adapter.
Key: If you sell the house and move, you will want to remove weird plumbing before inspection.
 
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