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Testing for Chloramine

BAYMAC said:
Chloramines mess with ammonia test kits and give false readings.
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Why is this? Is it because the test kits don't test for free ammonia, or does the chloramine molecule itself read as ammonia to the test?

BAYMAC said:
Low Ph burns DI much faster. To save DI, it is best to make a blow off chamber between your RO and your DI. It's basically a container that is aerated to remove the Co2. It does require a pump to get the water through the DI though.
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Like an RO booster pump? Is this what you do? Does the DI normally get used up removing H[sup]+[/sup] and the various carbonate ions?

BAYMAC said:
I've tried those, they are not all that accurate. I ditched mine.
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Thanks for the heads up before we wasted our money. Out of curiosity, how did you determine it was inaccurate?
 
Not sure, not a chemist, sorry,

filled a 50l graduated container I have at work.

It just might work with your higher PSI though. I run at 60.

A booster pump would work just fine, in fact I think that is what Spectrapure recommends.

Ours is set-up a little different. We blow the entire life of the disposable filters all in one go, but we use 1g+ of RODI a week.
 
sendo said:
I think I'm just going to order the chloramine test kit from the filter guys and a few of their chloramine removal blocks.
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After all that I think I have to agree with you. I tested for ammonia last night and got nothing. What Gresh said makes sense here.

I think the easiest way to check the life of the GAC/Carbon will be to test the effluent (prior to DI) for chlorine. Instead of the FM-2 I think I'll just hang a sheet of paper on the inside of the cabinet door and replace the pre-filter every 6 months or so.

Gresh - Blowing off the CO2 sounds like too much work to me. I'll just double up on the DI resin with my next order I think :)

~Charlie
 
That's where I'm at, change prefilters regularly! Keep track of when you do it and stick to it. Also, the chloramine block from brs decreases my psi from 80-60 when it's used up. Another way to keep track.
 
I was sitting here looking at the BRS site thinking that a pressure meeter would be good too. The meter should give you an idea on when the sediment filter is done also. Added bonus if it works like that on the ChlorPlus block.

What micron rating are you using for your sediment filter? I bought the 5 stage kit from BRS and it looks like the sediment filter is 5 micron but the ChlorPlus block is 1 micron. Seems like what makes it through the sediment filter could eventually clog up the ChlorPlus block.

~Charlie
 
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