Kessil

Vincent's Office Planted Tank

And so a new journey begins.

Tank is level, sorta. Level enough, I guess is the appropriate word.

Wood will be slightly more upright, need to have some support underneath to bring it up more.

Probably need a taller light mount too.

Got soil and supplements already. I'll be heading to Neptune Aquatics for plants next!
 

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Is this allowed on the BAR forum? :) Will you be using the Apex to control CO2 dosing?
Yes, there will be an Apex involved. This is for me to get some experience in the planted arena to see how I can use the Apex to make it easier. Most I've spoken to have expressed that its pretty easy already but I'm aiming for the super high tech planted tank. Seems like the planted tank scene is much like reef tanks 5-8 years ago. Most can be successful in growing zoas, LPS but SPS was only for the dedicated reefer.
If you need some low light growing plants let me know I have some needleleaf Java fern and anubias nana
Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that.
 
One thing that I want to try to do is use an apex and ph probe to control co2 dosing. Current methods are largely manual (drop checker). This could lead to greater safety from over gassing your tank.

also for some reason auto dosing isn’t big yet, but I think that could be great for macro elements and micro elements.

I recommend checking out SFBAAPS, the BAR for planted tanks. Not as active but I bet they would appreciate this build.
 
Welcome to a new journey! A bit of rambling from a 20+ yr planted tank guy.

A Milwaukee PH controller is plenty to be honest. I used one for years for CO2 control in tandem with a DKH test and just repurposed it to control the CRx when I switched the tank to SW. The only real advantage i could see using an APEX is data logging of temp & PH along with automated water changes, leak detection, and redundant heater control.

The biggest deal with planted tanks is the huge variance in nutrient uptake between slow/fast growing species and being able to balance your dosing. Especially in light of the much faster growth in a CO2 dosed tank. One macro or micro nutrient depletes and you get more algae as plant growth stops/slows. The most common dosing regimen uses 50% weekly water changes to prevent buildup of all nutrients whilst preventing the depletion of any one nutrient.

Being able to "read" your tank visually is a huge deal. Seeing the signs of various nutrient defincincies in the plants leaves and stems lets you adjust your dosing to compensate. Shape, color, deformation, or death of leaves are all signs for different nutrient shortages. Learn the signs early and you'll be much more successful with a CO2 dosed tank. Auto dosing can be a time saver but if a nutrient depletes to the point of stalling growth you'll get hammered by algae growth. Other than ICP style testing there are some micro nutrients that just can't be tested for. The advent of an accurate, home based, real time testing solution for all the macro & micro nutrients for both FW and SW would be the single biggest game changer of the hobby bar none IMO.

Macro nutrients​

Micro Nutrients​

Used in large quantities by plants: Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, Calcium & Magnesium, SulfurUsed in very small quantities by plants: Iron, Chlorine, Boron, Manganese, Zinc, Copper and Molybdenum.

Honestly, I recommend hand dosing every few days along with visually checking plant growth for deficiencies vs auto dosing. You can adjust your dosing on the fly with experience. It's a good habit as you'll need to be trimming certain plants often anyway.


SFBAAPS isn't what it used to be when i started with them 20 yrs ago but still a good resource for knowledge and plants from swaps. The Planted Tank forum is much more active but of course not really local. The Barr Report forum is great from a science/tech standpoint for is low activity these days.

Aquaforest in SF or Aqualab in SJ both have a better selection of tissue culture plants than Neptunes. Hardscape selection is better too. Neptunes will often have FW fish not available other than online.

PS If you want glass inflow/outflow pipes, have spares.
PPS Siamese Algae eaters are cool fish, with a mean doppleganger that looks almost identical. They eat algae when young then get fat and lazy and stop.
PPPS Amano shrimp are great but will be mean and kill other shrimp like Neocardinia
PPPPS American Flagfish are hard to find but one of the best algae eaters out there. Mollies are great algae eaters too, they'll just breed you out of house and home
 
Yes, there will be an Apex involved. This is for me to get some experience in the planted arena to see how I can use the Apex to make it easier. Most I've spoken to have expressed that its pretty easy already but I'm aiming for the super high tech planted tank. Seems like the planted tank scene is much like reef tanks 5-8 years ago. Most can be successful in growing zoas, LPS but SPS was only for the dedicated reefer.

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that.
Let me know when you ready. I can do some trimming of the plants.
 
Welcome to a new journey! A bit of rambling from a 20+ yr planted tank guy.

A Milwaukee PH controller is plenty to be honest. I used one for years for CO2 control in tandem with a DKH test and just repurposed it to control the CRx when I switched the tank to SW. The only real advantage i could see using an APEX is data logging of temp & PH along with automated water changes, leak detection, and redundant heater control.

The biggest deal with planted tanks is the huge variance in nutrient uptake between slow/fast growing species and being able to balance your dosing. Especially in light of the much faster growth in a CO2 dosed tank. One macro or micro nutrient depletes and you get more algae as plant growth stops/slows. The most common dosing regimen uses 50% weekly water changes to prevent buildup of all nutrients whilst preventing the depletion of any one nutrient.

Being able to "read" your tank visually is a huge deal. Seeing the signs of various nutrient defincincies in the plants leaves and stems lets you adjust your dosing to compensate. Shape, color, deformation, or death of leaves are all signs for different nutrient shortages. Learn the signs early and you'll be much more successful with a CO2 dosed tank. Auto dosing can be a time saver but if a nutrient depletes to the point of stalling growth you'll get hammered by algae growth. Other than ICP style testing there are some micro nutrients that just can't be tested for. The advent of an accurate, home based, real time testing solution for all the macro & micro nutrients for both FW and SW would be the single biggest game changer of the hobby bar none IMO.

Macro nutrients​

Micro Nutrients​

Used in large quantities by plants: Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, Calcium & Magnesium, SulfurUsed in very small quantities by plants: Iron, Chlorine, Boron, Manganese, Zinc, Copper and Molybdenum.

Honestly, I recommend hand dosing every few days along with visually checking plant growth for deficiencies vs auto dosing. You can adjust your dosing on the fly with experience. It's a good habit as you'll need to be trimming certain plants often anyway.


SFBAAPS isn't what it used to be when i started with them 20 yrs ago but still a good resource for knowledge and plants from swaps. The Planted Tank forum is much more active but of course not really local. The Barr Report forum is great from a science/tech standpoint for is low activity these days.

Aquaforest in SF or Aqualab in SJ both have a better selection of tissue culture plants than Neptunes. Hardscape selection is better too. Neptunes will often have FW fish not available other than online.

PS If you want glass inflow/outflow pipes, have spares.
PPS Siamese Algae eaters are cool fish, with a mean doppleganger that looks almost identical. They eat algae when young then get fat and lazy and stop.
PPPS Amano shrimp are great but will be mean and kill other shrimp like Neocardinia
PPPPS American Flagfish are hard to find but one of the best algae eaters out there. Mollies are great algae eaters too, they'll just breed you out of house and home
Thanks for the write up.

In searching for GH test kits, I've only found the API one. Is there a better test kit? It seems most people test for GH but not KH?
 
Thanks for the write up.

In searching for GH test kits, I've only found the API one. Is there a better test kit? It seems most people test for GH but not KH?
You're welcome. Many test kits will do both FW and SW so you may not need to double up. Both API KH and GH kits are a clear color change based on counting drops of the reagent. Super simple and accurate.You'll be testing KH to adjust your CO2 levels so that you don't exceed 30ppm saturation.

https://www.amazon.com/API-TEST-Fre...880a7&pd_rd_wg=UJYK9&pd_rd_i=B003SNCHMA&psc=1


co2_graph_zps9c124ef0-gif.6317.gif


After awhile I started using RODI for WC's and just adding calcium and magnesium to reach a target GH/KH. The TDS meter told me enough after a few tests to just use it's results vs testing. Some of the rock like Sieryu stone will leach and cause a rise in GH/KH levels so be aware of that before choosing the stone for your scape. A simple acid or vinegar test on the stone will tell you whether it's inert or will leach.

PS If i tell you something you already know pls forgive me :)
 
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You're welcome. Many test kits will do both FW and SW so you may not need to double up. Both API KH and GH kits are a clear color change based on counting drops of the reagent. Super simple and accurate.You'll be testing KH to adjust your CO2 levels so that you don't exceed 30ppm saturation.

https://www.amazon.com/API-TEST-Fre...880a7&pd_rd_wg=UJYK9&pd_rd_i=B003SNCHMA&psc=1


View attachment 29620

After awhile I started using RODI for WC's and just adding calcium and magnesium to reach a target GH/KH. The TDS meter told me enough after a few tests to just use it's results vs testing. Some of the rock like Sieryu stone will leach and cause a rise in GH/KH levels so be aware of that before choosing the stone for your scape. A simple acid or vinegar test on the stone will tell you whether it's inert or will leach.

PS If i tell you something you already know pls forgive me :)
Even if someone else knows this, I am loving your writeups. Keep the info coming! Thank you!
 
Thanks for the write up.

In searching for GH test kits, I've only found the API one. Is there a better test kit? It seems most people test for GH but not KH?
Sorry for the douple reply but I wanted to point out that GH doesn't really matter a bunch except in acclimating livestock or keeping/breeding super sensitive species. Plants will grow in both high or low GH. Most seem to do better sub 10 GH. Some of the best planted tanks I've ever seen were using the magical SF tapwater (before chloramines were added). Parameters that seemed insane to the rest of us unlucky sobs with well water and such.
 
You're welcome. Many test kits will do both FW and SW so you may not need to double up. Both API KH and GH kits are a clear color change based on counting drops of the reagent. Super simple and accurate.You'll be testing KH to adjust your CO2 levels so that you don't exceed 30ppm saturation.

https://www.amazon.com/API-TEST-Fre...880a7&pd_rd_wg=UJYK9&pd_rd_i=B003SNCHMA&psc=1


View attachment 29620

After awhile I started using RODI for WC's and just adding calcium and magnesium to reach a target GH/KH. The TDS meter told me enough after a few tests to just use it's results vs testing. Some of the rock like Sieryu stone will leach and cause a rise in GH/KH levels so be aware of that before choosing the stone for your scape. A simple acid or vinegar test on the stone will tell you whether it's inert or will leach.

PS If i tell you something you already know pls forgive me :)
Awesome! Been hard to get information like this with real numbers.

I see a wide range in KH on the chart. Is there an ideal KH range? As I understand it, GH value is more impactful than KH value in a planted tank and there isn't really a relationship between GH and KH.

I'm always glad for information, even if it is something I already know, it helps to reinforce any information I get from other sources.
 
Generally speaking lower kH and gH is beneficial for most plants. Plants tend to like softer water. Its been so long since I've had a planted tank, I can't remember the actual numbers. When I lived in SF, I did not supplement my water to raise kH and gH. My plants still grew very well.
 
Yes, there will be an Apex involved. This is for me to get some experience in the planted arena to see how I can use the Apex to make it easier. Most I've spoken to have expressed that its pretty easy already but I'm aiming for the super high tech planted tank. Seems like the planted tank scene is much like reef tanks 5-8 years ago. Most can be successful in growing zoas, LPS but SPS was only for the dedicated reefer.

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that.
when I did planted, I transitioned to Walstad -- you can't get more low tech and easy than that. lol. Exactly the opposite.
 
Awesome! Been hard to get information like this with real numbers.

I see a wide range in KH on the chart. Is there an ideal KH range? As I understand it, GH value is more impactful than KH value in a planted tank and there isn't really a relationship between GH and KH.

I'm always glad for information, even if it is something I already know, it helps to reinforce any information I get from other sources.
Hard numbers are hard to get when so many variables affect what you need to do.

I generally tried to keep a GH and KH somewhere between 3-6 degrees. Hard enough for buffering and soft enough for the majority of plants. Some manufactured substrates will sequester KH due to the acid buffering action they are designed to perform. So low GH/KH water is better if you're using them or they will exhaust the buffering quickly. I usually didn't use that type of substrate. I used black diamond blasting sand ($8-9 for 50lb bags) for a long time which is completely inert or UNS Controsoil which doesn't buffer that much. Then used root tab fertilizer for heavy feeding plants like swords or crypts.

There are some bodies of water in the tropics where our plants come from that plunge from around PH 7 during the day to PH 5 or lower at night. The plants don't really care if your PH is all that stable. The livestock does :) .
 
when I did planted, I transitioned to Walstad -- you can't get more low tech and easy than that. lol. Exactly the opposite.
I really love that you can go so low maintenance in planted tanks and still have lovely tanks. Neptunes has had a rock, sand and crypt tank going for a long time. Just a couple plant species. Looks fantastic.
 
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