Denzil's 40B with 20L Sump-Fuge

Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by denzil, Aug 15, 2012.

  1. pixelpixi

    pixelpixi Guest

    Just a suggestion on the frame.... a butt joint (like you have where the vertical supports connect to the horizontal apron) isn't very strong, even with pocket screws.

    If you instead inset the leg (like is shown in Charlie's drawing) you can put screws through the legs into the apron, which makes a much stronger joint. If you need a flush surface for attaching plywood to, you can always just add filler strips to the front and/or side of the legs.

    I hope that makes sense. I can make a picture if it's helpful!
     
  2. denzil

    denzil Webmaster

    Great, thanks for sharing that! I thought about doing it but wasn't sure on implementation until I saw your tank journal thread. Seeing that thread is what really convinced me to try to make it a reality. However, there are definitely some challenges.
    I think I get what you mean. So you're suggesting that I inset all four of the vertical legs on both horizontal (top & bottom) aprons? Wouldn't that mean the weight is dependent on the strength of the screws? Or are you referring to just the ATO platform?

    I think a picture would help immensely to eliminate any potential confusion. :)
     
  3. denzil

    denzil Webmaster

    I'm rethinking my tank stand design with consideration about the butt joints not being the strongest per pixelpixi (Erin). My current design seems rather flimsy (currently) without the plywood on the sides and front. Do you think using half laps to interface the vertical 2x4's and the top/bottom frames would work better if I weren't going to make any additions or subtractions of 2x4's? I'm also considering not having the internal electrical panel area where the ATO would bolt to if I'm going to be compromising structural integrity.

    I suppose I'm overly thinking the structural integrity of the stand design but maybe I'm just being skeptical about how the stand is right now without the plywood mounted to the sides. :)
     
  4. Piper

    Piper Guppy

    Denzil - Can post some pics? You don't want it to be flimsy before putting the plywood on. When I had my 2x4 framework together without the ply and the sides it was very sturdy. I would have been comfortable enough with it to put my tank on it as is at that point.

    If you don't have access to a Kreg jig half laps would be better than butt joints. Make sure you get some glue in there too.

    ~Charlie
     
  5. denzil

    denzil Webmaster

    Well, I just purchased the Kreg Jig Master kit so I think I'm set there. I had bought it because we cut the front support beams on Brandie's 40g bow to fit in the 25g sump... fits just barely but definitely maximizes the space down there. Now we're just going to use the Kreg and some glue to replace the support beams that were once there. The previous beams were originally stapled in.

    I'll get you a sketchup as soon as I get some time today.
     
  6. denzil

    denzil Webmaster

    I just "Kreg'd" two supports beams for Brandie's 46g bow stand and I feel much more confident that my design should be solid if we actually use the Kreg instead of just winging the pocket holes.
     
  7. denzil

    denzil Webmaster

    I'm going to be picking up the Formica I ordered from Lowe's and a few more 2x4s as I'm going to redo my stand frame with pocket holes (Kreg Jig) and glue (Titebond III). It should provide a much more stable and solid frame for the plywood to attach to. The L brackets that will support the ATO will be mounted to the right side support beams with the proper plywood platform to go on top of the brackets. I've decided to do away with the side electrical panel for the reason of simplicity and cleanliness of design.

    Can't wait to finally get the stand finished. Unfortunately, I just stopped by a Petco a couple days ago and wasn't able to find a 40B tank with the dollar/gallon sale. I guess I have to play the waiting game. =/
     

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