High Tide Aquatics

Jeff's 120

Well I scratched the two 20's and went with the one 40g breeder instead... so there is only one of the side stand/tanks i'm doing at this point.
 
[quote author=seminolecpa link=topic=4762.msg75512#msg75512 date=1232346576]
I am running the RKE. If you ever want to see it in action feel free to shoot me a pm and I will send you my address. The Net module is set to ship Feb 1. At this point the graphing is a little limited. I pre-ordered the net module so I should be runnig full boar by the 2nd week of Feb.
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That would be very cool... I'll drop you a PM. I'll need the next couple of weeks to complete the finishing work on my new frag stand as well as to get the electical figured out so I'm not tripping my breaker when the chiller is on. Around the time you get your Net module running for a week or so I'll be ready to look seriously at a controller. Would love to see yours up and running before I move forward on that.
 
Still tweaking it a bit with the new tank setup but shouldn't be long. I am running halides and t-5 lights upstairs, my canopy fans, moon lights and pumps. Have a bus line to the garage where I am running 2 perastalic pumps for dosing 2 part, chiller, 2 heaters, skimmer, fuge light and another PH monitor that sits in the sump.

Total of a head unit, 4 PC-4's, 4 moonlights, a moonlight controler, a SL1 with PH and temp probe and soon to be the Net module. Plan on ordering the SL-2 when it is released so I can run it downstairs to also moniter sump temp, PH and tank salinity.
 
[quote author=Gomer link=topic=4762.msg75505#msg75505 date=1232345984]
Standard household breakers/wiring is set at 15amps. If this is a dedicated line, and you can get it properly wired in, might as well get a 30 amp line (which is basically a 3600watt setup). Mikey probably would have some sage advice here on the electrical end of things.
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Mikey???? any advise? or anyone else that is a master at this?
 
These are the two DBTC frags I got at the BOD meeting... I think they are doing pretty well so far.

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After coming home from work today I fed my 120g DT and noticed an odd mark on the top ridge of my Swallowtail Angel while she was feeding. She is acting normal, eating very well etc. It's kind of hard to see but these were the best two pics I could get. Any ideas on what it is?

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It almost looks like something may have taken a small bite of her right at the top yellow ridge a little behind the eyes. It looks like it has swollen a little bit. I don't know if it is a small wound or perhaps some sort of parasite.
 
I believe you have a parasite. Their sucking causes the pigmentation loss, I believe. Watch your fish for signs of stress, but I don't think it is life threatening in small numbers. Do you keep any cleaner type shrimp or fish?

If you notice the parasite growing, then you may have something more sinister than what I think it is. Also, if there are multiple spots, you might want to dip your fish.

Good luck. I hope it is nothing serious.

Oops, you say there is swelling? Hmmm... the parasite I'm thinking of does not cause swelling. Can you see a little white dot in the middle of the spot (which is the parasite)?
 
no white dot... looks more like a small wound than anything. I've got lots of cleaners... fish and shrimp.... UV.... very stable water perameters... fish is behaving normal... eating lots... swimming around playing with the chromis.
 
My Chiller is fully up and running now... My tank has been running high for the last week in temp after putting a new heater in my frag tank.... Looks like the thing is way off on it's temp sensor. Tank temp is at 83... I've got it set for 75 and it's still running. Have taken it out. Between that and the chiller I hope to keep my temp at a good spot going forward.

Temp was at 83 at 8:30pm.... Lets see how fast it pulls it down...

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Second Valve down is going to the chiller...
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Going out to and comming back in from the chiller. Out is a T off of the pump... In goes to the Skimmer Chamber...

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In only 30 minutes it brought the temp down 1.2 degrees... wow

9pm...
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Owners manual on this guy says it needs 8"+ of clearance in the back.... I'm there with a little to spare bringing the front of the chiller flush with the front of the tank stand. Room has good air movement with a ceiling fan that is almost always running.

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In order to adapt to my power issue I have a lighting/chiller schedule I would like to put to you guys and get your thoughts.... As stated earlier in my thread the 15amp breaker trips when my halides are on at the same time as my chiller. I hope to resolve this by installing a dedicated breaker and power outlet but since I rent my house it is going to take some doing to get this approved. In the meantime I am trying to adapt to two other things as well...

The hottest time of the day for my tank now and especially in the summer is between 11ish pm and 5ish pm
I have been running a 10am to 4pm halide cycle for my DT and Frag tank which sucks because I'm always at work when the lights are on.

So I'm thinking this...

12 Noon to 5:30pm Actinics Only (Dawn)(not running halides during the hottest part of the day)
5pm to 11pm Halides (I'm home to see the tank and the temp has cooled off by this point; we typically open the windows at this point)
10:30pm to 12 Midnight Actinics Only (Dusk)
12 Midnight to 12 Noon Blue LED's only
11pm to 5pm Refugium Lights

Chiller to run Opposite of Halides from 11:30pm to 4:30pm

Are there any issues with this?
 
I usually try to set my lights to come at least after 3p, that way I save a bit of electricity during the day and avoid heating the tank prior to the day getting warmer.

Of course, I am in SF sunset district as well :) where it does not get too hot, only on an occasional heat streak.

I am running 2 different T5 fixtures for a total of 10x54w. Currently my actnics come on around 330p, 2 more come on at 4p and the rest of the lights follow. And lights start to cycle off around 1030 and the last lights are out around 1130p.
I also have my AquaController turning on fans. My fuge light comes on half an hour before the last light in the display is out and turns off half an hour after the first light comes on in the display.

You can always tailor your lights to turn on closer to the time when you get home, that way, you are home to enjoy the tank and be able to monitor the temp more closely as well.
 
[quote author=tapmorf link=topic=4762.msg76258#msg76258 date=1232605593]
I usually try to set my lights to come at least after 3p, that way I save a bit of electricity during the day and avoid heating the tank prior to the day getting warmer.

Of course, I am in SF sunset district as well :) where it does not get too hot, only on an occasional heat streak.

I am running 2 different T5 fixtures for a total of 10x54w. Currently my actnics come on around 330p, 2 more come on at 4p and the rest of the lights follow. And lights start to cycle off around 1030 and the last lights are out around 1130p.
I also have my AquaController turning on fans. My fuge light comes on half an hour before the last light in the display is out and turns off half an hour after the first light comes on in the display.

You can always tailor your lights to turn on closer to the time when you get home, that way, you are home to enjoy the tank and be able to monitor the temp more closely as well.
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Cool... that gives me some confidence here. I am running 2 250W MH in the DT and another 250 MH in the Frag tank. it produces some decent heat... I've also got fans running to coincide with these guys. I'm hoping running the chiller for 17 hrs a day opposite of the halides will work fine for me in case I'm not able to get the electrical work I would like done approved by the owner of the house. This will also make sure that the Chiller is running during the hottest part of the day and allow me to be able to see the tank with the lights on after work each day. Thats the thought anyways...
 
Well I had some madening issues with my tank last night that kept me up till about 3am. After having the chiller on for about 4 hours... set at 77 degrees It pulled the temp down from what it was reading as 83 down to 78. I noticed all my heaters where on and running even though they were set at 76 degrees. My Pinpoint Temp monitor agreed with the chiller along the way from 83 to 78. So.... I got out another pinpoint sensor I had and put it in with the existing one and it read the Temp at 72 degrees. :eek:

Then I tested all three heaters and all three heaters turned off just below their 72 degree setting. I had no other tank temp monitors so I raided the kitchen and pulled out 3 different meat monitors as well as a digital version.... all were reading 72 degrees.... :eek:

So using every method at my disposal the score was 8 to 2. 8 devices believing it was 72 and the other 2 believing it was 78. So I pulled the PinPoint Monitor that was in the minority and re-set the chiller temp to reflect 72.

Right now all heaters are set at 76 degrees and the chiller is set at 78. Waking up this morning the tank temp is sitting at 76-77. I'm still not 100% comfortable so I'm going to grab myself a couple other temp meters on the way home today to quadruple check. That one PinPoing Monitor and the chiller temps being so off really screwed me up though. I mistakenly assumed that they would of accurately set the temp on the chiller at the manufacturer. The tank did not get below 72 but I still do not like that I put the tank through such a temp swing. I belive I will have a pretty steady 76-79 degree range going forward. All the fish where behaving fine this morning as I fed Cyclopees. I'll take a look at the corals in the frag tank tonight and see how they fared.
 
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