Jestersix

90 Gallon forced upgrade no more peninsula.

JAR said:
Nice work!
Looks like the basement at 6th avenue aquarium. So much fish tank stuff in the background.
I guess I'm not the only one that can't throw stuff out.LOL
Click to expand...
JAR said:
Nice work!
Looks like the basement at 6th avenue aquarium. So much fish tank stuff in the background.
I guess I'm not the only one that can't throw stuff out.LOL
Click to expand...

Ha....ha.....that's exactly what I was thinking. Is that a biocube w/ stand I see in the background? I have a friend that is looking for one. PM me if it's for sale and I will pass it on to him. Let me see if I can spot something I need in the pics too :bigsmile:.
 
Hi !

We should all have a tour on reef related garage/yard/sidewalk sale !!

There are two cubes on the pictures, the BC29 has the maple stand and the black one is a no brand cube

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Hey Mario,

Wow! That stain looks really exotic. And that Protein Skimmer looks like it can take on anything. Looks like you're going to run a CA Reactor too? Seems like you're going to get this up and running in no time flat.

Nice set up.

Happy Reefing,
Joel
 
Hi Joel !

As much as I'd like to run a Ca reactor, first I have to check the watts amps I might be able to squeeze out of the wall plug, live in a really, REALLY old building and nothing has been updated to the point if I hook up more equipment the fuses (the old type) blow and if I'm not home, I'm not worried about a wet carpet but the life of the inhabitants, I've been getting some low volt equipment like Tunze power-heads. Jumping to 2x250W MH will have an impact on the load at the fuse box if it's the case, back to the drawing board and might do a combo 2xVHO and as many T5's I can squeeze.
At one point, I had two 175W MH alternating 6 Hrs. each but running both at the same time for two Hrs. and had no issues with fuses but the reactor when plugged and the microwave oven running then the fridge coming on plus the TV and lights... bad combo.
I have a smaller KnopC and think better suited for this tank since the footprint is smaller, rating is ~200G where the Korallin is up to 400 way overkill. The nice-er thing of the Knop is I can attach it to the stand thus saving space inside for media reactors.
I have to work on the wiring of the lights and do some plumbing so most likely HD will be the place to be tomorrow.

Mario
 
I understand. These babies drink a lot of juice.

I had to spend apx $750 to have my box rewired so I could run my chiller on a separate circuit. I had to pull out some old aluminum wiring that wasn't code and that was on a breaker that wasn't the right size too. Then, I pulled the fridge circuit off the breaker that was serving the family room where my system is running. It's amazing what passes for code out there, and what surprises you'll find behind the panel and walls. I'm happy now. Barely any flickering going on when things are all on. I did most of that just to protect my investment of my PFO ballast, as I hear PFO is going bye bye. I hope that's not so.

I thought I saw a Co2 canister in the cabinet picture, that's what let me to think you might run a reactor.

R.K.
 
It is a CO2 tank and Korallin unit but I use the equipment to figure out the real estate in the stand, same I do with skimmers, use the Euro-reef footprint to put together sumps; If I go with a reactor will be with this unit, KnopC rated for 200G and can be fixed on the plywood with ease. I have not used the unit in quite some time.

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...been a while since I worked on the tank, last Sunday I finally installed the bulkheads, had to run to OTA for couple of gaskets. 1.5" bulkheads had to be carefully tightened with a chanelock, took the tank outside, set the tank on double 3/4" ply outside and filled it, so far no leaks; now to empty the tank and give it a good cleaning tomorrow after work.

I changed the light a bit, being busy pushes the transfer for couple months more, also there's a possibility for us to move to a little bigger place so have to hold til I confirm if the place will be available if so that might mean scratch everything and go for the 90RR since it has space for it.

In another thread I started by asking "How many times..." and this is the reason.

Here are couple updated images of the light shelf; four T5, two 250W DIY DE reflectors and four sets of blue LED's for which I still need to know how to light them up; the type of power supply for them.

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I decided to perform surgery on the old IceCap 660; sending it for service means at least $75+ shipping there and back to me so not a smart move if a newer one on RC might be at a decent price and they would only give a 90 day warranty on either repaired or replaced board (This $95+ shipping both ways)
I removed the rivets and opened the case, one cap seemed fried so Radio Shack and is back up and running again. I tested it with VHO bulbs and even that they are "Old School" T5's don't beat VHO's IMO
"I saved a ton of money and did not switch to GEICO"
I dusted off a dual Aqua Medic Dual HQI/Mag ballast and fire tested my hood.
Since I have an old case from a dual Mag that had a blown transformer, I decided to open it and extract everything inside to accommodate two IceCap 250W old style with independent power cord and switch, my hood is way an overkill for a 70G tank but gives me the option to use either light set, MH (Single or dual) or T5 (60Wx4 due to the IceCap 660); the AM Dual has only one power cord as many or all duals do.
Why not just single ballasts? Because I had nothing better to do and either single or duals lack a power switch.
I'm going to sacrifice four bulbs, the cheap ones sold with the Katana/Fishneedit fixtures to see how long they will last.
Still have to work on the moon lights, need to find a proper power supply.
After testing lights for a mere 30 minutes I went ahead and cleaned the tank in and out then sprayed two panes black, since it's not going to show three sides, the back and one main pane got the spray can touch.
Most likely the sump will be a different one since I scored a free plexi tank in the 40B kind of footprint; all it needs is a buff and baffles installed, of course most of the top has to be routed off. This I have to do since I tested the skimmer for removal in case of cleaning or service and is a royal PITA to get it out. I would like to get a custom fitted sump but $$ is key now.
Fuge/Sump light a Ready Fit T5 kit with Giesemann lamps
Well here are some images.

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Finally connected the moon lights to a 10V power supply donated by a cable modem, also added a single moon light purchased from OTA long ago, is white but it gives a nice look when all around is dark.
Forgot to snap some images :~
I finally found a couple Icecap ventilation fans and their power supply and they will replace the 120V shown on the image; I know somewhere to have two more fans to install on top of the canopy part to pull hot air or fix them right above where the fan is shown, the bottom ones will push air and the top ones pull; well I need to play with them.
Tomorrow I'll make a cover for the overflow box, don't want fish jumping in there or a curious snail.
 
A couple steps back, my Oceans Motions Squirt got a cable loose then the other one snapped off, second issue is Silicon hose, can't find it anywhere, Gresh was kind enough to give me couple feet at the swap but it barely fits the Mag 9's outlet. Hose barbs are 1" so If I don't find the hose then vinyl will do.
I decided to plumb the return along with the OM instead of a closed loop/separate pump.
I'm undecided whether to use the Mag 9/Eheim 1262 in-sump or go external with a Poseidon T3 if the heath generated by any of the pumps means a smaller heather then will save some pennies down the road. Icecap 660/T5 combo runs cool with the fans pointed to the bulbs, temperature sensor sits right above the T5 lamp and they don't blow full speed even after an hour or so of having the lights on.

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I was hopping new year new tank, still a few details. Once water goes in there´s no "I´m not sure about this..."
I´m going to test it all plumbed in the basement once finished.
 
Completed the 4 way return via OM Squirt but has to redo some things to fit the silicon hose which by the way I would have been short if it wasn't for Gresham who kindly brought a section to the swap.
THX Gresh !!
One of the T5 lamps died today so makes me wonder if it will be worth to have them run on Icecap 660 if the life span of them is shorter than expected so might wire this weekend two regular T5-HO ballasts.
The bulb was kind of old but not that much as to be blown in less than 10 hours testing it. By circuitry protection of the ballast, it will not fire up if one of the bulbs is blown.
Still have to make sure the OM Squirt works properly, the wires that connect to it broke off and tried to solder it twice just to break loose again.
Drains will be two, 1.5" on the right and main and a reducer to 1" on the left; this drain will feed the media reactors passively to save on energy.
Returns are 3/4" PVC and Lockline, will drill the hole to break siphon once I have the waterline marked and measure the volume to run the sump safe of accidental spills.
If I find more trouble with the lighting part I have a Coralife 150MH/PC fixture as emergency/just in case that will do the trick for the time being.

Some images of the plumbing...

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Some light plumbing work done and finally glued pieces together, most of them; short of one 1.5" union, by mistake got a 2"...
Light for the fuge is a double 24W T5 ready fit retro, overkill so I might take it down and place a little twisty bulb from Costco, they have the six pack 65K for about $6 and I already have a reflector.
I need to dampen any noise that might arise from the sump being flat on the wood so I'm thinking of a yoga math, will it do the trick?
To absorb vibrations from the Mag9 I will zip tie silicon hose, two sections if I don't find something suitable. Media reactors will be fed from the 1" pipe, to control the flow a ball valve.
Got a BRS Dual reactor but might not fit; it was a good price anyway from BRS group buy
...but just in case I have some spare TLF.
ATO I have a dual switch besides an Aqua Medic.
Calcium I'm not sure if going CaRx or keep it simple with two part.
I checked my Ca levels yesterday and are high; 550. When I had the tank crash and then the nudis nuking the montis I kept on dosing the same amount so I'm suspicious of that being the reason for high level.
Well, that's all for now...

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From L to R, return, skimmer and fuge; tank is 36x15x16 all the top flange was removed but baffles will do a nice hold it together job; still thinking of adding a fixed filter sock holder in the skimmer section.
I could not find a cheap 40B glass tank for sump and this one was collecting dust.
It will take most of the real estate inside the stand so media reactors will reside inside the fuge section
I'm trying to make the system energy efficient or some sort of and means the Mag 9.5 might not be the pump of choice, have couple 1262's but still think I should go for a 1260, which I don't have.

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Nice setup. The 1 thing that scares me is there aren't any hose clamps on the flexible tubing. Call me paranoid but unless you 100% sure they won't come off I'd get hoseclamps on each tubing fitting for peace of mind.
 
Thx

I got that covered, zip ties will do the work, just testing things before cutting/gluing.
I would not want that return system to become a "garden sprinkler" under the stand.
 
Mario, your plumbing looks great. For the vibration of your sump in the stand, I used the insulating styrofoam from Home Depot. They sell it in 3' by 4' sheets, or 4' by 8'. It makes a nice white base for the stand, and seems to reduce noise (and hopefully reduce heat loss). What will you be putting inside your Phosban reactors? My Eheim 1262 puts out more than enough return flow for my 150 gallon system.
 
Styrofoam might be the insulating/dampening material; I normally grab the sheets when our neighbors buy something with large pieces inside the boxes and leave them by the trash bins, kind of going green. Was also thinking of Neoprene even a yoga mat for that purpose. The only time I've seen painting Styrofoam was my mom when I had a project in elementary school; she covered the whole spheres with glue, let them dry and then painted them different colors, think they were water based paints but hey, it worked !!
1262 is a lot of flow for a tiny 70G; I'll be looking into trading one for the smaller 1260.
I chose a pump ~900GPH since I'm having the return via OM 4 way; when I began the project thought of drilling an extra hole for a closed loop and run it with a Velocity T3 pump same way as the returns I made but instead of the Locline, OM Revolutions; changed my mind on that since the external pump uses somewhere around 130W and want this tank to be just as energy consuming as the current one I have.
TLF Reactors the usual media, Carbon, GFO; the two extra reactors will have the Sulfur based passive reactor and the last one ARM to bring up the PH of the effluent and adding Calcium.
I've read that people use media containing both, Calcium and Magnesium in the second/effluent chamber of a Sulfur reactor; hey if it acts like a Ca Rx then I see no need for another pump running.
I purchased the GFO and Carbon in the BRS Group buy, also a BRS dual reactor, little bulky for the system and might not fit so the TLF are fitting perfectly on the current sump hanging out, or the bigger one but inside.
 
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